Eating Out

From Holme Lock it's a short journey down the Trent to Meadow Lane Lock which takes us onto the Nottingham Canal and into the busy city.  For some time Kev has been pondering about buying a tablet so our first stop was Currys.  After discussing our requirements with the helpful staff we emerged with a tablet and a "Mi-Fi" which uses the SIM card from my dongle to create Wi-Fi.  The tablet is useful for the internet and we both already have a favourite game.  

The canal took us back onto the Trent and we moored up on the quiet jetties outside the lock onto the Cranfleet Cut.  The owner of a cruiser came to ask for help because he thought he'd flattened his battery and couldn't start his engine.  Kev fired up the generator but after some time charging the battery the engine still wouldn't start.  The owner decided to leave the boat overnight and arranged a lift home.  Kev said "Don't worry about your boat I'll keep an eye on it."  

Early next morning Kev went out with the dogs and the cruiser looked OK, by the time he came back it was sinking.  The water wasn't deep so the boat didn't completely submerge but it was still a shocking sight.  Kev rang the Canal & River Trust and from the boat's license number they were able to check their records and ring the owners.  As we left they were trying to arrange a recovery.     

The sinking cruiser

The short Cranfleet Cut leads to a junction, the Erewash Canal heads north, the River Soar flows south and we sailed west on the Trent.  At Sawley Locks our journey continued on the Trent & Mersey Canal.  

The busy area around Sawley Locks.  There are two locks, one in the centre of the photo and one to the left, to prevent delays for boats.  The boats in the foreground are British Waterways maintenance craft.  

At Shardlow the canal turns through tight bends and it's renowned wharf buildings line the route.  There were a lot of boats on the move so we took the first available mooring which happened to be opposite two pubs.   After perusal of the menus we had an excellent meal at the New Inn.  

The next day we took another mooring outside a pub.  "The Ragley Boat Stop" has moorings with electric points which are always useful.  A couple of boaters, Les and Lorriane, introduced themselves and after chatting awhile we found we had a lot in common.  We enjoyed a very good meal in the pub with Les and Lorraine and back on the moorings we were joined by another couple for a sociable evening. 

The canal had been busy during the week and on Saturday we saw 8 boats in a queue for a lock.  Luckily we were travelling in the opposite direction.  We were pleased to find space to moor at Willington but some late-comers were not so lucky.  On Sunday we set off early to avoid the water traffic and arrived in Burton on Trent mid-morning.  Unfortunately we were a little too early as no-one had moved on.  Undeterred we tied up opposite the moorings, had a cup of tea and waited until a boat moved off.  

Mural on the wall at Horninglow Basin, Burton on Trent.  On the other side of the barrier is the A38.

       
Our journey from Holme Lock to Burton on Trent

Another Holiday

Cath, John and the kids joined us at Torksey to share the first week of their holiday.  The tides on the River Trent were low and high tide wasn't going to reach Torksey.  This meant the tide wouldn't effect our speed so we could set off at anytime.  We were surprised to see a boater taking advantage of the low tides by running his boat aground on a beach to paint it.  

Boat painting on the River Trent

 

Penrose in hot pursuit!

The next day we travelled to a popular destination, Newark, and were lucky to find moorings on the low wall which was also handy for shopping.  Newark's an interesting town and we enjoyed walking round.  At the bric-a-brac market Kev had a reminisce with another guy after spotting pre-electric drills and yankee screw-drivers on one of the stalls.  John and Kev called in at Just Beers to sample the real ales and we all enjoyed a meal in Pizza Express.  I recommend the "Chocolate Glory" dessert which lived up to our high expectations.  

The relief map of Newark which stands in the Castle grounds. 

From Newark the river took us into the countryside.  The first stop being Hazelford Island, home to blackberry bushes and rabbits.  The kids went blackberrying and then with Cath's help made a delicious blackberry and apple pie.   Late one evening the sound of jazz music drifted up the river.  Downstream we could see the lights of a large trip boat on a cruise.  A live jazz band played and couples danced as the boat glided through the night. 

Our last stop together was at Stoke Lock and again we were lucky with the moorings.  After a sudden torrential shower in the afternoon the rain held off and we were able to sit out for our last evening. 

The next day we sailed the short distance to Holme Lock and the adjacent water sports centre.  The England Relay Triathalon Championships were being held over the weekend so we went to watch.  I chatted to a lady whose husband was competing and she explained the finer detail of the race.  Our own exercise was limited to walking and once around the 3 mile circuit seemed far enough.  

Waterfowl is abundant at Holme Lock but a black swan is an unusual sighting.  It seems to have taken up residence and certainly isn't shy of boaters. 

Black Swan at Holme Lock

Our route from Torksey to Holme Lock

Sarah's Holiday

Sarah joined us at Thorne for a holiday on board.  As we sat chatting that evening a furry face suddenly appeared at the window on the canal side of the boat.  A cat had walked along the gunwhale but as it couldn't get passed the cratch cover it then had to reverse back to the stern.  Luckily Bess and Brinny didn't see it.  

We sailed over to Keadby and found the carpet of green weed we saw last year had encroached further up the canal.  For 5 miles our bow pushed through the weed forming thick mounds and we left a clear trail behind us. 

Leaving a trail through the green weed

We had an early start through Keadby Lock and a pleasant run up to Torksey where we moored overnight.  The next day we sailed on to Saxilby where Kev decided to replace the rubber seal on the skylight.  The window and it's frame were out in pieces when the heavens opened.  We erected a large umbrella through the skylight hole which kept us dry but probably looked bizarre from the outside.

There are moorings at Lincoln but for a day trip we took the train.  A steep walk from the station took us through Lincoln's interesting streets and up to the Cathedral where we admired the magnificent craftsmanship.  The intricate stain glass windows, illuminated by the sun, immediately caught our attention.  The fine stonework and old wood carvings were complimented by more recent additions, modern wood sculptures and intricate needlework on banners and altar cloths. We also spotted the famous Lincoln Imp perched high up above a pillar.

A banner depicting the Virgin Mary after whom the Cathedral is named.  The swan is associated with Saint Hugh who rebuilt the Cathedral after an earthquake in 1185 caused extensive damage.

The week passed quickly with plenty of time for sketching, walking and of course talking and soon it was time to return out onto the Trent.  High tide occurred late in the afternoon and as we went through Torksey Lock we asked the Lockie about the tea-pots we were surprised to see on the inner lock gate. These gates are not used and the Lockie put in the first tea-pot which prompted boaters to contribute to the collection.  On the opposite gate a display of kettles has started.  

Sarah's photo of the tea-pots on the lock gate.  When the lock is full the tea-pots are submerged so they are filled with gravel to keep them in place. 

Once through the lock we moored up on the pontoons where we were joined by Cath, John and the kids on the first day of their holiday.

Our journey from Thorne to Torksey and Saxilby

Too much water

As I wrote up the last blog I was unaware there had been flash floods at Todmorden and more flooding on the River Calder.  The next morning our journey included stretches on the river but the indicator boards were showing green, "safe to proceed".  Unfortunately the flood gates were shut and the landing stages aren't long enough to tie up Brent III.  At Thornhill flood gate Kev dropped me off to open the gates and moved back into the river.  The gates would not budge and Kev sat waiting in the middle of the river.  I was starting to wonder what to do next when I spotted a couple enjoying a walk on the towpath.  They obligingly helped push the gates and held them open until Kev had sailed through.    

The floods had brought debris down the river and also dislodged clumps of reeds.  As we left Dewsbury a large island of reeds, complete with resident ducks, blocked our path.  After gently running our bow into it and some manoeuvring with the barge pole the ducks left and their home floated off to the side.  

We stopped at Broadcut that night and were enjoying a quiet evening when a loud moo sounded very close.  A black bullock was walking up and down the towpath, distressed at being parted from the rest of the herd who were in a field further away.   As he walked back passed Brent III I went in the opposite direction to the local pub.  The landlady rang the farmers and before they arrived Kev herded the bullock into an empty field safely away from the canal.  

At Stanley Ferry we met up with Shaun, Laura, Nic, Gaz and all the grandkids.  We had a good get together which included a meal in the pub and then Bett-Lou stayed with us for a holiday.  During the next few days Bett-Lou had a busy time, helping with the locks, learning how to steer the boat, walking Bess and Brinny and bird spotting.  We saw a lot of herons, ducks and swans but were surprised to see a peacock landing in a garden.   There was also time for drawing, working on a collage and beating us at cards.  Bett-Lou's holiday ended at Viking Marina and we turned our attention to some maintenance.  

We'd noticed water was getting into the engine bay and prime suspect was the stern gland.  The propeller shaft runs from the engine through the stern tube and out into the canal.  The stern gland packing is thick cord wound round the shaft which is kept greased to stop canal water coming into the boat.  Kev replaced the cord and gave it a good greasing. 

The next morning the local news reported Lafarge at Whitwood will no longer be using the barges for transporting sand and gravel.  The redundant barges are moored up at Goole awaiting their fate.  As Lafarge was one of the last companies to use commercial barges in the north it could be the end of an era.  

Sand and gravel barges moored up at Goole

After leaving Goole we turned down the New Junction canal and on checking the engine bay were concerned to see we were still taking on water.  We pulled over and spotted the source, the bearing on top of the rudder was letting a flow of water through when the propeller was turning.  We carried on to Thorne with the little bilge pump working overtime. 

Bess and Brinny enjoying the view as we sail away from Goole.

  

On arrival at Thorne Kev dismantled the the casing around the top of the rudder and with a little help from a big hammer retrieved the bearing which was well and truly worn out.  He called City Seals and Bearings in Rotherham and spoke to Bill who was very helpful.  He checked the measurements to ensure it would fit in our boss before handing over the new bearing to Nic who had called in to collect it.  He also offered to come back to the shop after hours to change the bearing if it didn't fit and gave us his mobile number.  Nic passed the bearing to Shaun who then drove up to Thorne.  The new bearing fitted perfectly and resolved the leak so thanks to a combined effort we are back up and running.  

Our journey from Brighouse to Thorne.  From Goole to Thorne is marked in orange.

Water Levels

We left Brighouse with another narrowboat and so were able to share the locks which are shorter than those on other canals.  Manoeuvring both boats in and shutting the gates was sometimes a bit tricky.  The canal follows a wooded route through the Calder Valley and has an excellent towpath which is also a cycleway.  When walking with Bess and Brin I had to watch out for speeding cyclists.   At Elland the towpath takes a detour through an alley and up on to the main road to cross over to the other side of the canal, a bit of a mystery tour until you spot where the towpath starts again.  

At Salterhebble the bottom lock has an electric guillotine gate which replaced the original lock gates in the 1930s when a new road bridge encroached on the available space.   The other two locks at Salterhebble were manned by volunteers who warned us the water levels were low between the locks.  Happily we sailed through without any problem. 

Salterhebble guillotine lock - the grey box on the right is the control panel.  

The Calder and Hebble connects with the Rochdale canal in the busy boating town of Sowerby Bridge.  The hire boat company, Shire Cruisers, occupies one of the many wharves whilst the others are used for private and visitor moorings.   Enormous stone warehouses and other buildings crowd around the wharves and apart from the use of the buildings this area has hardly changed since the canal's heyday.  

Warehouses and the busy canal basin at Sowerby Bridge

On canals the locks are numbered, heading out of Sowerby Bridge the Rochdale Canal has Lock 3/4.  This isn't a watery route to Hogwarts but at 19 feet 8 inches  it is the deepest lock in the country and replaced the original locks 3 and 4.   The lock enabled the Rochdale Canal to be reopened in 1996 but the waterway was only completely reopened to Manchester in 2002. 

Lock 3/4 also known as Tuel Lane Lock

The Rochdale Canal is notorious for it's low water levels so we decided, as did several other boaters, to catch the train to Hebden Bridge and Todmorden.  

The dry weather came to an end with a big thunderstorm, luckily Bess and Brin weren't upset by it.  On the journey back to Brighouse we noticed the water levels were up and as we rounded a corner a willow tree was down across the canal.  There was just enough room for us to squeeze through but I had to move everything which could get caught up off the roof.  

Back at Brighouse Kev recognised Chris and Bernie, boaters who we enjoyed travelling with in 2011 on a holiday to Newark so we enjoyed a good chat.  On Saturday night heavy rain put the River Calder in flood, preventing boaters travelling to or from Brighouse.  During Sunday a queue of boats developed and a constant procession of boaters walked to the lock to check the water level indicator board.  This remained on red,  "Do not proceed", until tea time when the water had subsided enough for amber, "proceed with caution", to show.   By mid-morning Monday the water level was back down to green and the queue of boats had long gone so we set off on our return journey. 

The River Calder flooding - the river jetty is underwater with just the tops of the mooring bollards showing.  

Our journey from Brighouse to Sowerby Bridge and back. 

Lazy Days

From Bramwith we sailed up the New Junction Canal and headed west on the Aire and Calder, taking our time in the heatwave.   At Ferrybridge the canal joins the River Aire which wends it's way past Ferrybridge power station and it's abandoned coal wharves.  Further on the woodlands of Fairburn Ings nature reserve line the river bank. 

At Castleford we were surprised to see Trev and Sandra, the couple we travelled with from Bingley and through Leeds.  Brinny and Bess were excited to see their dogs although it was a bit hot for chasing round.    

View from the footbridge over Castleford flood lock towards the visitor moorings.  The lock is an unusual shape and the  gates are open because the river levels are low. 

From Castleford we headed west on the River Calder.  At Whitwood an orange buoy marks the position of a large sandbar which juts out into the river.  I wish it'd been there a few years ago, it would've prevented me running us aground.  

We stopped at Stanley Ferry which has a Canal & River Trust workshop that specialises in replacement lock gates.  The finished gates are stacked in the yard and kept soaked with water pumps.  They won't be fitted until winter when the canal can be closed.  

Stanley Ferry yard, the finished gates are stacked on the left. 

The canal splits to be carried over the River Calder on two parallel aqueducts.  The first is reputed to be the largest cast iron aqueduct in the world.  The trough holding the canal is supported by iron bars connecting it to the two arches and it was opened in 1839, the Sydney Harbour Bridge was built on the same principle.  The second aqueduct was built in 1981 as an alternative crossing to prevent damage to the historic structure. 

The Stanley Ferry cast iron aqueduct, taken as we sail over the modern structure.  

 Stanley Ferry has good visitor moorings and a pub selling real ale so we stayed awhile to enjoy the sunshine and the occasional cold beer. 
     
The Aire and Calder Navigation ends at Fall Ings Lock, Wakefield, and from here we're sailing on the Calder and Hebble Navigation.  Fall Ings Lock was a taste of things to come.  The lock gates were heavy and difficult to open but the lock gear was so stiff Kev had to take over.  When it became apparent most of the locks would follow suit Kev took over the lock duties.  To complicate matters the locks had a unique contraption on some of the gate paddles, a small iron wheel has to be turned with a wooden lever, known as a "handspike" to raise the sluices.   We have a handspike but it is cumbersome to use.   Luckily half the locks on this stretch are flood locks and are left open unless the rivers are flooding.   

On the outskirts of Huddersfield we turned onto the Kirklees Cut and then back on to the River Calder which took us to Brighouse, a small industrial town which is a good place to stop for the weekend.

Our journey from Bramwith to Brighouse

Past Times

From Viking Marina we  took a steady trip down memory lane.  Our first stop was at the top of the New Junction Canal.  The next morning our ropes started creaking, an indication of water movement often caused by a commercial barge.  A little later Humber Pride, an oil tanker, came over the Went Aqueduct.  Humber Pride and Humber Princess are the last commercial barges running regularly to Rotherham.    

Humber Pride fills the narrow Went Aqueduct as it returns to Goole

Our route alternates between canal and river with electric locks between them.  The Doncaster to Rotherham railway line runs alongside and crosses our path on a very dilapidated  bridge at Conisborough.  Braces and cables appear to be keeping up the bridge which I used to travel across daily on my commute to Sheffield.   In comparison Conisborough Viaduct, which is no longer used, has elegant arches which span the Don Valley.

Conisbrough Viaduct

At Swinton we moored near Waddingtons boatyard, once a thriving barge business but sadly no longer operating.  The fleet of 90 has been reduced to a dozen and the yard is now used, by Waddingtons which is still owned by the family,  to dismantle the boats for scrap.   A poignant end to this once famous fleet.

Some of Waddington's remaining barges.  Resilience, on the left, was used by Acasters to transport a transformer to Newark last year.  The yard is on the right hand side of the photo.  

On a happier note the window sill of an old wharfe building at Mexborough was the home for 3 owl chicks who looked out as we passed.

Our journey on the South Yorkshire Navigation was punctuated by shopping trips.  At Aldwarke we stopped to shop at ASDA which is conveniently next to the lock.  Wheeling the trolley down onto the jetty saved carrying the shopping.  We then moved on to Eastwood Visitor moorings at Rotherham, a short walk from the Retail World shopping centre.  We stopped here for a few days and took the opportunity to see friends and family.  Nic and Gaz took Kev shopping and he returned with 4500 teabags which should keep us going for a while!

On our return journey we stopped at Doncaster to shop at the excellent market.  All stocked up we sailed onto Bramwith for the weekend. 

 Our journey from Goole to Rotherham and back to Bramwith.  Our return stops are marked in purple.