Stratford-upon-Avon to Sharpness

During our stay at Stratford-upon-Avon Nic and Shaun came down to see us; it was good to see them and have a catch-up.  We also decided to start our long overdue diets and our cupboards were filled with healthy food as we sailed out onto the River Avon.

After stopping a night at Welford Lock we continued through Bidford-on-Avon whose road bridge was badly damaged last year.  The bridge has now been repaired and reopened to traffic.

The repaired historic bridge at Bidford-on-Avon

That night we stopped at Offenham Lock where there are plenty of moorings in a quiet setting.

Only Brent III on the moorings at Offenham Lock

On Tuesday we left Offenham and sailed through to the park moorings at Pershore, one of our favourite town moorings.  We stayed a couple of days and had a potter around the indoor market and the shops.  In the afternoon I walked Bess and Brinny across the meadows and up to the village of Wyre Piddle which has some attractive old beamed cottages.

The old cottages at Wyre Piddle

On Thursday we completed our journey on the River Avon by sailing into Tewkesbury, another attractive little town.

Tewkesbury Bridge with the old mill building in the background

When I took the girls for a walk on the Severn Ham we found it was full of sheep so their leads had to stay on.

These obstinate sheep refused to move off the the path on the Severn Ham

On Friday morning we left Tewkesbury, sailing through the lock onto the River Severn.  Half a mile downstream we came to Upper Lode Lock, a massive lock at the tidal limit of the river.

Waiting for the bottom gates to open in Upper Lode Lock

Once through the lock we had an excellent run to Gloucester averaging just under 6mph.  There were no other boats on the visitor moorings at Gloucester Docks so we picked a spot well away from the waterside bars.  Then we went on a spending spree. A replacement tablet for Kev was top of the list and while in Currys we bought some handy pocket sized binoculars which have variable magnification.  I also picked up some good trainers in Go Outdoors clearance sale and went back for some more the next day.   It was as well the visitor moorings in Gloucester are only for 48 hours.

Gloucester Docks at night

On Sunday we sailed south down the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal encountering the first of many swing bridges.  Luckily they are all manned by a bridge-keeper so all we have to do is wait for each bridge to open.  After 1 overnight stop on the canal we arrived at Sharpness.  The canal is parallel to the River Severn and the visitor moorings give an amazing view across the estuary.

We narrowly avoided rain on this walk.  A view of the canal in the foreground with the Severn Estuary on the far side of the wall and trees.

Our journey from Stratford-upon-Avon to Sharpness

Leamington Spa to Stratford upon Avon

We left Leamington Spa on Friday heading west towards the Hatton Flight.  We usually moor at the bottom of the flight but this time we went up the first 4 locks where we could stop in a long pound. The next morning we were up bright and early with the bike ready for the remaining 17 locks.  The sun was shining but rain clouds were gathering and we were pleased to be through Hatton Top Lock 2 hours later.  

British Waterways buildings and a lock viewed from the previous lock on the Hatton Flight 

We sailed further on to the embankment at Rowington and stopped before the rain started.   We then stayed another day before sailing to Kingswood Junction ready for the Stratford Canal.  Kev had unfortunately dropped the binoculars resulting in magnified double vision. He found a replacement pair on ebay, click and collect to Argos was available so he ordered them to be delivered to Stratford.  It was only after receiving the confirmation we discovered they were going to be sent to a previous delivery address in Yorkshire.  The seller was very helpful and cancelled the order so we could start again and this time we changed the default address to Mum and Dad's in case the Argos delivery request failed again.  Lucky that we did because once again the Argos delivery information was lost.   Later we discovered the cause of the problem was Kev's ancient tablet which is losing it's touch screen sensitivity.  

On Tuesday morning we started descending the narrow locks on the Stratford Canal; some of the bridges are also very narrow. 

One of the narrow bridges, just wide enough for a narrow boat

We stopped outside Wotten Wawen on Wednesday and the low banks made it ideal for painting Brent III's gunwhales.  We were pleased with our work over the next 3 days but needed some provisions.  The poor telephone signal ruled out an Asda delivery so we caught a bus into Stratford upon Avon.  The bus taking us into town was 10 minutes late but that was nothing compared to the journey home.  After standing for 30 minutes in pouring rain at an open bus stop we vowed not to rely on buses again.

The next day the weather was bright and sunny and we sailed over the small Wootten Wawen aqueduct and stopped about a mile further on.

The Wootten Wawen aqueduct with visitor moorings on the left and the green Anglo-Welsh hire boats on the right

We'd stopped just  before the Edstone Aqueduct so I was able to take some photos of the structure from the ground. 

Brick pillars support the narrow Edstone aqueduct 

On Monday we sailed over the aqueduct giving us a different view. 

The view from the bow as we sailed over the Edstone Aqueduct 

The canal took us through Wilmcote village and down the 11 Wilmcote Locks before we stopped for the day. 

Canalside buildings at Wilmcote

On Tuesday we had 5 locks to descend to take us  into Stratford upon Avon including the notorious Lock 53.  Due to it's proximity to a bridge the balance beam has been removed and replaced with railings at right angles to the lock gate which makes it difficult to open. 

The railing replaces the balance beam on lock 53 and Kev replaced me on lock duty!

We pulled into the basin at Stratford and the sun came out to give us another heatwave.  Bess has become accustomed to stretching out on the towpath and thought nothing of doing the same on the pavement in front of the memorial steps. 

Bess laid out on the pavement

Our journey from Leamington Spa to Stratford upon Avon 

Banbury to Leamington Spa

After being grounded below the lock we were relieved to find the water levels remained stable on our new moorings at Banbury. 

The canal from one of the pedestrian bridges, the shopping centre is on the right and the white bars crossing the canal are on the lift bridge 

Sarah arrived by train on Monday and during the afternoon we had a wander around the small town.  Next to Banbury Cross stands a statue of the Fine Lady on a White Horse. 

The bronze statue of the fine lady on her horse

The next day we travelled a short distance to Slat Mill Lock, the first of many rural locations.  That evening some cows  looked as if they were going to come across the canal from the opposite bank but luckily they changed their minds and left us to watch the sunset. 

The sunset lit up the sky through hazy cloud

On Thursday we moored up at Fenny Compton, a typical village in this region with it's older buildings constructed in a local brownstone.

The church of St Peter and St Clare at Fenny Compton

The Methodist Church was not so obvious, hidden behind some houses which left it only a narrow entrance.

The narrow entrance to the Methodist Church

The sun came out for us on Friday and we pulled up on an embankment giving us a good view across open countryside which seemed perfect for sketching.  Kev set up the telescope so we could scan the distant hills.    We stopped another day but the weather turned and a thunderstorm passed directly over us.  Bess and Brinnie were a little nervous; it's the first time they've encountered a storm at close quarters.  

On Sunday morning the dry weather returned and we sailed on towards Napton.  On the way we were pleased to see some hares crouching in their seats on an open field.  We stopped at the top of the Napton Locks and Sarah and I had a walk into the village, passing a herd of water buffalo on the way.   The village shop sold water buffalo ice cream so of course we had to try it.

Water buffalo in the field next to the canal

On Bank Holiday Monday the locks were busy and we were queuing to descend to the bottom and a mooring near the Folly Inn where we enjoyed a meal.  

Kev's photo of the Folly Inn

Kev was up early with his camera on Tuesday morning and took some good photos in the mist. 

Kev's photo looking down the locks in the morning mist

We then sailed around Napton's hill and onto the Grand Union Canal stopping near the top of the Stockton Locks.  This years sloe crop hasn't been very good but Sarah and I picked enough for our sloe gin.  That evening the sky was clear revealing the milky way and a lot of stars.  With the aid of Skymap on the tablet we were able to pick out some constellations.  

On Wednesday we had an early start to descend the 8 Stockton Locks and, with Sarah in front setting the locks, we made short work of them.  We carried on through the 4 Bascote Locks and pulled over at Welsh Road Lock where the former lock house made a good subject for a sketch.  

On Thursday we descended the remaining locks and sailed into Leamington Spa. Unfortunately the town centre moorings looked a bit dubious so we carried on a little way out and  moored near Morrisons, very useful for a big shop. 

Leamington Spa is famed for it's spring water which flowed from an uninspiring stainless steel tap outside the Pump Rooms.  Inside there was a small but interesting museum, part of which had housed the Turkish Baths and some treatment rooms with various contraptions to cure the sick.  

Attractive tiles in the Pump Room

Sarah and I picked up a historical trail leaflet which took us into Jephson Gardens which  had a glasshouse and some art galleries in a lodge gate.   The trail continued passed the many regency style houses in the town.  

Whilst in town we also called at the railway station for Sarah's ticket home as this was her last night with us.  


Our journey from Banbury to Leamington Spa

Wytham Woods to Banbury

We enjoyed one more night on the quiet Thames meadow moorings before heading towards the Oxford Canal on Wednesday. 

Green marker buoys indicate shallows as we head towards the Oxford Canal

The short Dukes Cut took us onto the Oxford Canal and we soon encountered the first of many lift bridges, luckily the majority of them are left up. 

One of the lift bridges

Our first night on the Oxford Canal was at Kidlington Green and as we would soon need groceries I was pleased to see a nearby supermarket on  Google Maps.  Unfortunately my way to the road was blocked by a housing estate and the alternative route was too far, so no groceries yet. 

The next day we continued north and found the canal was shallow until we reached the oddly shaped Shipton Weir Lock which took us onto the River Cherwell for a short stretch.

The boat ahead of us going through Shipton Weir Lock, a wide lock with narrow lock gates.

We moored up opposite Kirtlington Golf Course which provided some entertainment over the next few days.  Kev chatted to the golfers and was amused to see some golf balls were retrieved from the rough by hand!  The village shop supplied us with some basic provisions but for the first time ever our large stock on board was starting to dwindle and some imagination was required for meals.  

Over the weekend the canal was busy and the water levels dropped so on Monday morning we made an early start to avoid moving out of the deep middle channel for boats coming the other way.  Progressing slowly on tickover we were fine until our prop snagged a duvet and we came to a sudden halt.  Kev was able to pull it free and we continued without further incident to Dashwood where we stopped for the day.  

It was a hard journey to Dashwood for these 2 who stretched out on the towpath as soon as we arrived

The mooring was quiet but some of the boaters were inconsiderate and didn't slow down as they passed.  This causes moored boats to move back and forward and after a particularly fast boat passed our back mooring pin was pulled out.  Annoyingly it disappeared into the canal and despite our efforts with a magnet and a grappling iron it was gone for good.   We had a spare pin so could stay on the mooring and did so for another day.  

A view across the canal at Dashwood, you can just see the roof of Brent III behind the first row of vegetation

On Wednesday we pulled onto the waterpoint at Lower Heyford and found it lived up to it's reputation as a slow filler; it took 90 minutes to fill our tank.  We continued our journey to Upper Heyford where we stopped so we could have lunch in the Barley Mow, our imagination with store cupboard items is beginning to fail us.  

On Thursday we broke our journey at Aynho Wharf to buy some provisions, propane, diesel and a replacement mooring pin at the boatyard.  We breasted up to the Mikron Theatre narrowboat which was moored up on the wharf and passed our purchases across their deep front deck.  We asked them about their next venue which was not much further on so we decided we would go to the show.  There are 4 actors in the company and during the summer they cruise between locations on the narrowboat.  That night's show was performed at The Pig Place, a small holding which specialises in rare breed pigs, hens and has a campsite and moorings.  We enjoyed the play about chocolate production during which the actors proved they were musicians as well by playing a variety of instruments to accompany their singing.   During the interval we appropriately enjoyed chocolate cake.   Unfortunately I didn't take any photos but here is a link to their website.  The Mikron Theatre

The weather forecast predicted rain on Friday and it wasn't wrong.  We moved a short way to Kings Sutton Lock and called it a day.  Once again we were close to a supermarket but the only route was a very long way round.  

On Saturday morning we headed towards Banbury before the strong winds started blowing.  We found an ideal spot on the outskirts and I set off on the bike for Sainsburys, the first big supermarket since we left Reading.  

Later we realised the mooring wasn't so ideal; when other boaters started dropping the deep Grants Lock behind us we were left sitting on the bottom.   We were well and truly grounded so couldn't move off.  The water levels continued to drop during the afternoon so I rang CRT who said they would check what was happening and get in touch.  They rang at tea-time to say they couldn't get the water levels back up until morning.  

Sat on the bottom caused us to tilt over

On Sunday morning we were afloat again and decided to move to a deeper mooring. Unfortunately the water was soon dropping again as boaters dropped the deep lock and we were soon grounded again.  I went ahead to the next lock to drop some water down to Kev who persevered and was able to ram his way through the shoal that had stopped us. Eventually Brent III arrived at Banbury and we found a good mooring through the next lock.


Our journey from Wytham Woods to Banbury

Lechlade to Wytham Woods

On Thursday morning the Lechlade farmer came to collect his mooring fee, £5 a night or £25 for a week; we stopped for the week.  

On the Lechlade moorings

As we sat out a small motor boat came along the opposite bank emptying crayfish traps.  The American signal crayfish have invaded our rivers and canals to the detriment of our native species and the size of their population is demonstrated by the commercial crayfishermen; they are exporting their weekly catch of half a ton to Belgium.  Kev asked where he could buy a crayfish trap and the fisherman gave him one he wasn't using.  Within 3 hours Kev  had 37 crayfish which once prepared he enjoyed fried in butter with garlic. 

One of the crayfish

Lechlade is a small but busy town catering for tourists with several pubs and take-aways, various shops and a very expensive supermarket.  Luckily it also had a car park convenient for Asda deliveries.   There were some good walks for Bess and Brinny who also enjoyed the meadow once the cows were moved to another field.  At night vivid sunsets lit up the horizon. 

Sunset at Lechlade

Our week at Lechlade quickly came to an end and we started our return journey.  At the first lock we passed the statue of Father Thames which was commissioned in 1854 for the Crystal Palace.

Father Thames, this statue has been at St Johns Lock since 1974

We were quickly back on the sharp twists and turns for the river and I tried to take some photos as Kev pivotted Brent III around the tight bends.

Pivotting round the tight bends

Shortly after sailing through the narrow Radcot Bridge we pulled over for the day. 

Radcot, the narrowest bridge on the navigable Thames

Over the next few days we travelled short distances and stopped on quiet meadow moorings. On Saturday morning we moored up in glorious sunshine on a meadow near Northmoor. During the day the river became busy with boaters, canoeists and several groups of swimmers. 

The last two swimmers with an accompanying canoe.  These swimmers had bright orange floats to warn boaters of their position.

Half a dozen sheep watched us from the top of the field and by late afternoon they came down to the river, reaching over the edge of the bank to nibble the grass.  Sitting out on our front deck we heard the splash as a ewe slipped in and the other sheep ran off.  The bank was too steep for the ewe to climb out so between us we hauled her up and by then one of the other sheep had come running back to us baa-ing loudly.  Reunited with her wet companion they made their way up the field and we were pleased they stayed away for the rest of the weekend.  
On Monday morning we sailed through Pinkhill and Eynsham Locks, our last two locks on the Thames, and moored up opposite Wytham Woods on yet another quiet meadow.  I think we'll be in for a shock when we return to the busy canal network.  


Our journey from Lechlade to Wytham Woods

Dorchester to Lechlade

On Monday morning we awoke to a heavy mist which gradually cleared as we made our way to Abingdon; a town which provides long stretches of moorings for visiting boaters.

A waterfront pub and alms houses with tall chimneys at Abingdon

The next day we had an early walk around the town before the sun broke out to give us the hottest day of the year.  On Wednesday we joined other boaters making an early start and sailed to Iffley near Oxford.  I then took off on the bike to see the sights in a city which conveniently provides plenty of cycle parking.  

The path around Christ Church Meadows gave my first views of the fabulous college buildings and Cathedral and also led to the University Botanical Gardens which were well worth a visit. At this time of year the herbaceous borders and flower beds were a riot of colour and the greenhouses held some interesting collections.  Carnivorous plants waited to trap unsuspecting insects, little fish swam under big lily leaves and weird and exotic plants were on display.  

Strange pods dangling from a plant in a hanging basket in one of the greenhouses.

I enjoyed seeing the honey coloured college buildings and as the streets were wide there was plenty of space to stand back and admire the architecture.   

The Radcliffe Camera building which houses a library

My final port of call was the Carfax Tower, I can't resist a rooftop view.

View of the 'dreaming spires' from Carfax Tower.  The people on the roof are at a roof top cafe. 

Heading north we sailed under the low Osney Bridge which is the limit of navigation for boats with an air draught over 7' 6".  There were still plenty of narrowboats about including a camouflaged one.  

A camouflaged narrowboat

Kings Lock was the first manual lock we'd seen on the Thames and the lock gear was very different to that on the canals.  A large wheel makes easy work of raising the sluices.  

A Thames lock gate with a wheel to raise the sluices

We moored up for the day on the edge of a meadow and that evening Kev spotted a family of foxes playing in a distant field.  We watched through the binoculars and the next day set up the telescope.  That evening only one lazy fox appeared but we had a good view of it curled up asleep in the late sun.  

Our attention turned back to the river when a flotilla of strange rowing boats passed, the rowers were standing up which looked a bit awkward. 

Standing up to row

We stayed 4 days and Bess and Brinny enjoyed chasing in the long grass until poor Brinny got a seed stuck in her ear.  No amount of shaking her head would dislodge it.  But we are prepared for such incidents and using the syringe from our first aid box Kev was able to flush it out.  

On Monday we continued west and the river started to narrow.  We stopped for the day at Northmoor Lock which was conveniently close to Appleton village shop where we picked up a few supplies.  

The next 2 days were hard work for Kev negotiating the sharp twisting bends on an increasingly narrow river.  Eventually we came up the last lock and the river opened out on the flat meadows at Lechlade, the limit of navigation on the Thames.  We had been warned about the young inquisitive cows who graze the meadow and after we'd moored up they came over.  They seemed to be looking for a tasty treat but weren't going to find it by licking Brent III, pulling at  the ropes and taking off our coloured mooring pin covers.  We quickly put anything that could be removed out of reach.  

Just tasting the boat while the cow behind investigates the mooring pin and it's bright warning cover which Kev had to retrieve.

Our journey from Dorchester to Lechlade