Merry Christmas

Time has flown by since we moored up for the winter at Viking Marina on 29th October.  After the convenience of borrowing Dad's car last year we decided we wanted another vehicle this winter.  Gaz sourced a Vauxhall Combi van and Shaun had it ready for the road.  The little van has proved very convenient although Bess and Brinny aren't impressed by the grill which keeps them in the back.  

We've enjoyed visiting family and friends and Kev's growing 'To Do' list has kept us busy.  Apart from general maintenance work we had some modifications which will assist us in our life on board.  Simple additions included strategically placed hooks for dog leads, mooring chains, hoses etc and Kev devised a lock for the diesel cap which is a sensible precaution against fuel theft.  Kev also had a plan for the woodburning stove which had a small top that limited the size of pan we could use.  It now boasts an extension for bigger pans.  

The inverter charger which broke down in the summer had to be returned to the manufacturer but we had some difficulty finding a courier.  My searches on the internet drew a blank and on one occasion a comment  "Whoa that's a big parcel"  which was surprising.  After entering the details on another site a courier replied asking us to confirm the size which revealed my error. The parcel was 600mm not 600cm long!   The courier problem solved we sent the unit back and were very pleased when Sterling Power Products rang to tell us it had been repaired and the only charge was for the return courier.  

For me November was novel writing month and having worked on the plot before the beginning of the month I was ready to type.   50,000 words is a lot of writing and I quickly realised I would finish the plot before reaching the target.  After adding some more characters and twists in the storyline I felt it was quite an achievement to finish my mystery tale using 53,000 words.  I thoroughly enjoyed the process and will probably take up the challenge again next year.  

We returned to land for a week, house-sitting for Nic and Gaz.  This was convenient for meeting up with friends and shopping in South Yorkshire.  It was also a short drive down to see Sarah in Chesterfield where we enjoyed looking round Hobbycraft.  I also retrieved some items which Sarah has helpfully been storing in her loft.   On the return journey to Goole we had a full van and back on board stashing everything away was a challenge!

John and Cath have been working hard renovating their new boat.  Volunteering for varnishing seemed a good idea at the time but it was an ideal opportunity for a long chat.       

There are now only four shopping days left so I'll end by wishing everyone a Merry Christmas and Best Wishes for the New Year. 

Home to Goole

The weather turned wet and water levels started to rise turning our thoughts to the return journey on the tidal Trent.  We moved on to Cromwell and had a walk down to the lock.  A dredger was working so we stopped to watch as bucket-loads of silt were scooped up and deposited in a barge.  Then we noticed a camera crew on the dredger and an interview taking place with us in the background.  When we watched the local news there we were - 2 minuscule blobs in the distance.  

That evening torrential rain and wind added to the noise of waves slapping against the hull so it wasn't a peaceful night.  In the morning we found a tree trunk had jammed under the jetty and against our stern.  Moving Brent III forward released the trunk which hurtled away towards the weir.  

At 12 o'clock the lockie let us through the lock and advised us the recent rain had raised the water level on the river by 10 feet.  There was no danger of grounding but in places we encountered 2 feet high waves.  We stopped overnight on the pontoons at Torksey and set off at 11.45am the next day.  This was the best time to gain an advantage from the tide and it certainly worked in our favour, after the tide had turned we sped along at 9.5mph.   We arrived at Keadby at 3.30pm, our fastest return journey. 

Passing the ruins of Torkey Castle which overlook the Trent

The approaching storm was making the news headlines so we decided to moor up at Thorne until it had passed.  On Sunday afternoon the wind picked up and we prepared for the gales, adding extra mooring ropes and clearing the roof of anything that might blow away.  The evening was quiet and so was the night.  Luckily the storm didn't come as far north as Thorne and on Monday morning we sailed up to the Junction and completed the journey home to Viking Marina on Tuesday morning. 

Moored up for the winter at Viking Marina.  

Since leaving Tattenhall we've travelled 1002 miles and come through 512 locks.  We haven't moored up for a rest, Kev has a list of jobs and minor modifications for us to do and I have been working on the plot for my November novel.  

The map shows the canals we've travelled during 2013

Full Circle

From Loughborough we travelled 9 miles up the River Soar to arrive back at Trent End, the junction between the Trent, Soar and Erewash Canal.  It had taken 46 days to complete the ring and we both agreed it had been a very good trip. 

The weather had turned and as we didn't have any more low bridges to encounter we were glad to keep the wheelhouse up.  We turned west and headed back to Shardlow for the weekend as Nic, Gaz, Shaun and Laura and the kids were coming to see us. 

Shaun and Laura brought their new pup, Teddy a 10 week old chihuahau lapso cross who was adorable.  His tiny size and long soft fur hid a sharp set of teeth as Kev found to his cost when Teddy bit his nose!  

Teddy 

We drove over to the Ragley Boat Stop, the pub whose moorings we used on the Trent and Mersey Canal.   We all had an excellent meal but Shaun found the 48 ounce steak a bit on the large side.  

Heavy rain was bringing up the river levels as we headed north and although the flood locks were shut the indicator boards still showed we were safe to proceed.  Luckily the lockies are manning the electric locks on the Trent until the end of the month so we didn't have to operate them ourselves.   The sun came out when we moored at Hazelford Island so we enjoyed a walk into the nearby village of Fiskerton.

Hazelford Weir taken from the footbridge across the river.  Hazelford Lock is on the left, the white mooring bollards can be seen at the top of the bank. 

At Newark Sarah came to visit us.  Sarah & I enjoyed  a walk round the town and making some purchases in Boyes' haberdashery.   Sarah has tempted me with a challenge - to write a 50,000 word novel in November for the National Novel Writing Month.  Sarah and I have signed up and are giving our plots some thought.  If anyone is tempted to have a go the website is     National Novel Writing Month   

Our journey from Loughborough to Newark

Kingfishers

From Foxton we followed the pretty winding canal to Market Harborough and took a mooring with the hire boat company in the canal basin.   Another piece of canal art stands on the wharf, a labourer with a plank which has been designed for a sundial.

The labourer sundial sculpture in Market Harborough Basin

 The busy town has some interesting shops and an unusual building whose original purpose was to combine a grammar school with a market.  

The old grammar school at Market Harborough.  On the left of the photo is the church which doesn't have any grounds, the pavement runs alongside it's walls. 

On our return journey to Foxton I was surprised when the driver and passengers jumped out of their car after I'd closed the road with a swingbridge barrier.  They wanted to take some photos as Brent III sailed through and Bess obligingly posed on the roof. 

Returning to our northern route we had one more tunnel.  Saddington is a short tunnel and is home to some bats.  On our way through we checked the roof but disappointingly only saw spiders, the bats were out of sight in the numerous bat boxes fixed to the tunnel walls.  

The next day locks took over from tunnels as we started the descent into Leicester and then moored up on the jetties outside Castle Gardens.  Our waterway key let us into the park which is shut to the public at 5.30 so we enjoyed a private garden in the evening.  Leicester has an excellent fruit and vegetable market with a difference.  Most of the produce is sold by the bowl, each bowlful costing a pound.  Leicester deserves it's reputation as a shopping centre and our star buy was a ceramic coated frying pan which Kev immediately tried with an omelette.  It really is non-stick.  

After seeing the sights of Leicester we continued north through it's suburbs.  The canal flows in and out of the River Soar and there were some weirs on sharp turns at the junction of the water courses.  Trees and bushes on the banksides often made it difficult to see which way the canal turned but provided a habitat for the little kingfisher which flashed electric blue across the river ahead of us.  

We saw several more kingfishers on our way to Loughborough, a pleasant town with plenty of moorings for visitors.  In the town hall art gallery I enjoyed seeing pictures by a local artist and Queens Park, in the town centre, has a 151 feet tall Carillon war memorial, colourful budgies and cockatiels in a large aviary and a small museum.  The case used to cast 'Great Paul', Britain's largest bell which hangs in St Paul's Cathedral, is also on display in the park.  

The case used to cast Great Paul.

 Our journey from Foxton to Loughborough

  

Tunnels

We had intended to leave Braunston on Monday morning but over the weekend Kev developed toothache.  Luckily the first dentist we rang in Daventry was able to give him an appointment on the same day and treat him on the NHS.  

Toothache free we set off up the 6 locks of the Braunston flight and approached Braunston Tunnel, at 2042 yards our longest yet.  There is two way traffic in the tunnel and as we entered we could see a pinprick of light in the distance, a boat coming in the opposite direction.  The tunnel barely looked wide enough for two boats but when we eventually met Kev steered us passed without touching.  Several more boats followed and then a disconcerting s-bend had to be negotiated before we could see daylight and the exit.  It took 20 minutes to travel through the tunnel and we were pleased to emerge into sunlight.  

The unassuming entrance to the long Braunston Tunnel

At Norton Junction we turned north onto the Leicester Line of the Grand Union Canal.  Shortly after passing Watford Gap services we arrived at Watford Locks and then onto Crick Tunnel, 1528 yards long with no s-bend.  We didn't meet any boats either but were glad to be through quickly because the roof was constantly dripping.  Reinforced brickwork and a section lined in wood show there have been problems in the past with the tunnel's stability. 

At Crick I had a surprise meeting with a colleague from work who'd moored up next to us.  We also saw the narrowboat Dover which featured in the TV series Narrowboat and Narrowboat Afloat with Alan Herd. 

Narrowboat Dover

There was one more tunnel, Husbands Bosworth, before we arrived at the top of Foxton Locks.  The locks are a big tourist attraction and we arrived on a busy sunny Sunday afternoon.

Horse and Boy statue at Foxton

Foxton is famous for the inclined plane boat lift which was built in 1900 to bypass the locks.  Boats were carried up or down the plane in 2 tanks which counterbalanced each other.  The tanks were connected by an endless cable which was powered by steam and pulled them up or down the rails.  High running and maintenance costs resulted in the demise of the inclined plane lift but the site of the tracks are still visible on the steep hillside.

Looking down the steep gradient of the site of the inclined plane boat lift. The tanks came up the lift parallel to the canal at the bottom which is now used as permanent moorings.    

Foxton is also famous for it's ten locks, arranged in two staircases with a small pound in the middle.  On Monday we booked in and came down the first staircase.  There are two sluices on each lock, one empties into the lock below and the other into a side pound. From the side pound the water empties into the lock two below thus saving water.  

Coming down the Foxton Locks, the side pounds are on the left and the winding gear is colour coded.  The red gear opens the sluice to empty water into the lock below and the white allows it go into the side pound.   

In the middle pound we tied up and did some lock-keeping for the five boats coming up.  As the top lock of the bottom flight was filled we emptied the bottom lock of the top flight to maintain the water levels.  Our volunteering duties over we were then assisted down the remaining staircase by the friendly Lockie and a group of Paraguayan tourists who thanked us for letting them have a go!

 Our journey from Braunston to Foxton 

Braunston

At Hawkesbury Junction the Coventry Canal connects with the North Oxford canal which took us south-east.  Not long into our journey we noticed the engine was overheating.  We topped up with water and then topped up again,  nothing seemed to be amiss but the engine needed another top up.   Once we'd moored up we had another check round but still couldn't see the source of the problem so Kev rang the River and Canal Rescue, the AA of the waterways.  They would be with us that afternoon but also checked if we needed provisions, water or anything else because that is all in the service they provide for stranded boaters.  

Before RCR came to our rescue we realised the cause of the problem.  Remember we drilled a hole to fit the solar panel cables and heard running water?  A pool of water in our utility area confirmed our suspicions and we spent some time removing shelves and panels to access the pipes.  The drill had made a neat hole in the pipe taking hot water from the engine to heat the hot water tank in the galley.   After replacing the pipe we just had to refill the cooling system. This is always tricky because air locks form and it took a couple more days running to bleed out all the air.  

The North Oxford is mainly rural and pretty but conveniently passes through the outskirts of Rugby near a Tesco.  On the approach to Braunston we looked out for the medieval ridge and furrow field patterns which are still clearly visible.  

The mounds are medieval ridge and furrow field patterns which dominate the countryside on the way to Braunston.

We moored up at Braunston, a busy junction where the Oxford canal joins the Grand Union. Working boats selling diesel, coal, gas and other items are a common sight in this area.  We bought some coal and were surprised how many different types of solid fuel the boater stocked.   

A working boat ties up alongside his customer's boat.  The boat on the left is moored up at the water point and the arches in the background are bridges over the canal junction.   

Braunston is an attractive village with some old dark ochre ironstone buildings.  We were surprised to see the wooden frame of an earlier dwelling preserved on the side of a brick house.  

The frame of an earlier building preserved on the side of a house. 

Our journey from Hawkesbury to Braunston

Technology

The nights are drawing in and there is a nip in the air, autumn is on the way.  This year's fruit harvest is impressive, trees are laden and the hedgerows are full of glossy blackberries, elderberries and rosehips.  We watched a squirrel gathering acorns and had no trouble finding sloes to make sloe gin.  Kev even spotted a wild hop vine growing at the side of one of the Atherstone locks.  

There are seven Atherstone Locks and they are notoriously slow to fill.  We arrived on a busy day, as we were going up the locks boats returning from a festival were coming down them. This saved some time opening and closing lock gates and with the help of the volunteer lock-keepers we were soon up the flight. 

We've seen an increasing number of boats with solar panels on their roofs.  The boaters we've spoken to are all impressed by their performance and some also recommended a company, M&R Controls.  After some further research we placed an order with M&R Controls for four 100 watt panels and an advanced controller to maximise electrical input.  This combination should provide all the power we need on a bright sunny day and make a good contribution in less than ideal conditions.  Delivery was arranged for Thursday in the Greyhound pub car park at Hawkesbury Junction.

We had opted to fit the panels ourselves and although they are relatively easy to connect up laying the cables was time consuming.  Kev was pleased to spot a short cut by drilling through one of the panels to feed the cable through.  As the drill went through it hit something and I thought I heard running water but only for a few seconds.  We were sure there were no pipes at the back of the panel and so finished connecting the cables.  

The next day the sun shone down as we drilled holes in the roof, fitted the brackets and paused to chat to other boaters.  As we connected the last panel the sky clouded over but we were still pleased to see a flow of electricity into our batteries.  Since fitting the panels the weather hasn't been ideal but we have already reduced the time the engine is running just to charge the batteries. 

Coventry is 3 hours away by canal or half an hour by bus, we took the bus.  The city looks like a new town as the majority of it's buildings were bombed during World War 2.  The cathedral was also bombed and all that remains is a shell with fragments of stain glass still attached in the window openings and the tower with it's spire.   We climbed the 180 steps up the tower and this time I'd remembered my camera. 

The shell of the cathedral viewed from it's surviving tower.  The building on the left is the new cathedral. 

   The Transport Museum had an impressive collection of exhibits.  The early precarious cycles caught my attention and some of the first cars and motor-bikes looked equally dubious. Kev was interested in the large motor-bike collection, spotting machines from his biking days. Bringing the exhibition up to date was the latest Jaguar and two world land speed record holders.  The display and the machines themselves, which were far bigger than I imagined, were interesting but we decided against a ride in the simulator.  

Thrust 2 which achieved 633 mph to break the world land speed record in 1983.  In 1997 this record was broken by         Thrust SSC which was also in the museum but wasn't as photogenic.

Gales and rain were forecast for Sunday so we stayed at Hawkesbury Junction for another day.  The bad weather didn't materialise and we enjoyed an excellent meal in the Greyhound that evening.

Canal art on a bridge at Hawkesbury Junction

Our journey from Polesworth to Hawkesbury Junction

Design and Architecture

Our journey continued in a south-westerly direction with the A38 roaring alongside us.  The locks on this stretch of the Trent & Mersey are narrow, built for narrowboats.  Travelling upstream we enter the lock through a small pair of lock gates but exit through a bigger single gate.  

Kev steers into Tatenhill Lock

Just before Alrewas a lock takes us onto a river section and we're pleased to turn away from the A38.  Alrewas is an attractive village with old beamed and thatched houses.

Two of the old houses at Alrewas

While we were moored at Alrewas I took the opportunity to visit the National Memorial Arboretum which is a centre of remembrance.  The vast grounds contain over 250 memorials each unique in it's design.  The Armed Forces Memorial, standing on higher ground, dominates the site.  Two semi-circular stone walls surround two straight walls which are the backdrop for two bronze sculptures.  One statue is in front of double doors carved as if they are ajar with a gap cut through the stone.  On the 11th hour of the 11th day in the 11th month a shaft of sunlight shines through the doors and illuminates a bronze laurel wreath in the centre of the Memorial. 

Bronze Sculpture in the Armed Forces Memorial, the figure on the left is standing in front of the doors.

 The stone walls are carved with the names of thousands of armed forces personnel who have lost their lives since the end of the second world war.  Walking around the quiet, well tended grounds and seeing the names of so many people who lost their lives was quite moving.   

At Fradley Junction we turned onto the Coventry Canal and for us new waters.  This pretty canal with it's neat grass towpaths and reeds growing along the canal banks follows the contours and so twists and turns on it's way south-east.   As a result progress is slow but this is a small price to pay for the lack of locks.  We moored up at Whittington where colorful back gardens lined the canal and when we walked into the village we found the verges alongside the footpath had also been planted up.

After Fazeley Junction the Coventry Canal turns north-east through Tamworth before resuming it's route to the south-east.  Our next stop was Polesworth, a small town with an impressive gatehouse dating from 1320 which was built for it's abbey.  The abbey was later demolished and the church which now stands on the site benefits from the grand entrance.  

  

Polesworth's gatehouse

Our journey from Burton on Trent to Polesworth

Eating Out

From Holme Lock it's a short journey down the Trent to Meadow Lane Lock which takes us onto the Nottingham Canal and into the busy city.  For some time Kev has been pondering about buying a tablet so our first stop was Currys.  After discussing our requirements with the helpful staff we emerged with a tablet and a "Mi-Fi" which uses the SIM card from my dongle to create Wi-Fi.  The tablet is useful for the internet and we both already have a favourite game.  

The canal took us back onto the Trent and we moored up on the quiet jetties outside the lock onto the Cranfleet Cut.  The owner of a cruiser came to ask for help because he thought he'd flattened his battery and couldn't start his engine.  Kev fired up the generator but after some time charging the battery the engine still wouldn't start.  The owner decided to leave the boat overnight and arranged a lift home.  Kev said "Don't worry about your boat I'll keep an eye on it."  

Early next morning Kev went out with the dogs and the cruiser looked OK, by the time he came back it was sinking.  The water wasn't deep so the boat didn't completely submerge but it was still a shocking sight.  Kev rang the Canal & River Trust and from the boat's license number they were able to check their records and ring the owners.  As we left they were trying to arrange a recovery.     

The sinking cruiser

The short Cranfleet Cut leads to a junction, the Erewash Canal heads north, the River Soar flows south and we sailed west on the Trent.  At Sawley Locks our journey continued on the Trent & Mersey Canal.  

The busy area around Sawley Locks.  There are two locks, one in the centre of the photo and one to the left, to prevent delays for boats.  The boats in the foreground are British Waterways maintenance craft.  

At Shardlow the canal turns through tight bends and it's renowned wharf buildings line the route.  There were a lot of boats on the move so we took the first available mooring which happened to be opposite two pubs.   After perusal of the menus we had an excellent meal at the New Inn.  

The next day we took another mooring outside a pub.  "The Ragley Boat Stop" has moorings with electric points which are always useful.  A couple of boaters, Les and Lorriane, introduced themselves and after chatting awhile we found we had a lot in common.  We enjoyed a very good meal in the pub with Les and Lorraine and back on the moorings we were joined by another couple for a sociable evening. 

The canal had been busy during the week and on Saturday we saw 8 boats in a queue for a lock.  Luckily we were travelling in the opposite direction.  We were pleased to find space to moor at Willington but some late-comers were not so lucky.  On Sunday we set off early to avoid the water traffic and arrived in Burton on Trent mid-morning.  Unfortunately we were a little too early as no-one had moved on.  Undeterred we tied up opposite the moorings, had a cup of tea and waited until a boat moved off.  

Mural on the wall at Horninglow Basin, Burton on Trent.  On the other side of the barrier is the A38.

       
Our journey from Holme Lock to Burton on Trent

Another Holiday

Cath, John and the kids joined us at Torksey to share the first week of their holiday.  The tides on the River Trent were low and high tide wasn't going to reach Torksey.  This meant the tide wouldn't effect our speed so we could set off at anytime.  We were surprised to see a boater taking advantage of the low tides by running his boat aground on a beach to paint it.  

Boat painting on the River Trent

 

Penrose in hot pursuit!

The next day we travelled to a popular destination, Newark, and were lucky to find moorings on the low wall which was also handy for shopping.  Newark's an interesting town and we enjoyed walking round.  At the bric-a-brac market Kev had a reminisce with another guy after spotting pre-electric drills and yankee screw-drivers on one of the stalls.  John and Kev called in at Just Beers to sample the real ales and we all enjoyed a meal in Pizza Express.  I recommend the "Chocolate Glory" dessert which lived up to our high expectations.  

The relief map of Newark which stands in the Castle grounds. 

From Newark the river took us into the countryside.  The first stop being Hazelford Island, home to blackberry bushes and rabbits.  The kids went blackberrying and then with Cath's help made a delicious blackberry and apple pie.   Late one evening the sound of jazz music drifted up the river.  Downstream we could see the lights of a large trip boat on a cruise.  A live jazz band played and couples danced as the boat glided through the night. 

Our last stop together was at Stoke Lock and again we were lucky with the moorings.  After a sudden torrential shower in the afternoon the rain held off and we were able to sit out for our last evening. 

The next day we sailed the short distance to Holme Lock and the adjacent water sports centre.  The England Relay Triathalon Championships were being held over the weekend so we went to watch.  I chatted to a lady whose husband was competing and she explained the finer detail of the race.  Our own exercise was limited to walking and once around the 3 mile circuit seemed far enough.  

Waterfowl is abundant at Holme Lock but a black swan is an unusual sighting.  It seems to have taken up residence and certainly isn't shy of boaters. 

Black Swan at Holme Lock

Our route from Torksey to Holme Lock

Sarah's Holiday

Sarah joined us at Thorne for a holiday on board.  As we sat chatting that evening a furry face suddenly appeared at the window on the canal side of the boat.  A cat had walked along the gunwhale but as it couldn't get passed the cratch cover it then had to reverse back to the stern.  Luckily Bess and Brinny didn't see it.  

We sailed over to Keadby and found the carpet of green weed we saw last year had encroached further up the canal.  For 5 miles our bow pushed through the weed forming thick mounds and we left a clear trail behind us. 

Leaving a trail through the green weed

We had an early start through Keadby Lock and a pleasant run up to Torksey where we moored overnight.  The next day we sailed on to Saxilby where Kev decided to replace the rubber seal on the skylight.  The window and it's frame were out in pieces when the heavens opened.  We erected a large umbrella through the skylight hole which kept us dry but probably looked bizarre from the outside.

There are moorings at Lincoln but for a day trip we took the train.  A steep walk from the station took us through Lincoln's interesting streets and up to the Cathedral where we admired the magnificent craftsmanship.  The intricate stain glass windows, illuminated by the sun, immediately caught our attention.  The fine stonework and old wood carvings were complimented by more recent additions, modern wood sculptures and intricate needlework on banners and altar cloths. We also spotted the famous Lincoln Imp perched high up above a pillar.

A banner depicting the Virgin Mary after whom the Cathedral is named.  The swan is associated with Saint Hugh who rebuilt the Cathedral after an earthquake in 1185 caused extensive damage.

The week passed quickly with plenty of time for sketching, walking and of course talking and soon it was time to return out onto the Trent.  High tide occurred late in the afternoon and as we went through Torksey Lock we asked the Lockie about the tea-pots we were surprised to see on the inner lock gate. These gates are not used and the Lockie put in the first tea-pot which prompted boaters to contribute to the collection.  On the opposite gate a display of kettles has started.  

Sarah's photo of the tea-pots on the lock gate.  When the lock is full the tea-pots are submerged so they are filled with gravel to keep them in place. 

Once through the lock we moored up on the pontoons where we were joined by Cath, John and the kids on the first day of their holiday.

Our journey from Thorne to Torksey and Saxilby

Too much water

As I wrote up the last blog I was unaware there had been flash floods at Todmorden and more flooding on the River Calder.  The next morning our journey included stretches on the river but the indicator boards were showing green, "safe to proceed".  Unfortunately the flood gates were shut and the landing stages aren't long enough to tie up Brent III.  At Thornhill flood gate Kev dropped me off to open the gates and moved back into the river.  The gates would not budge and Kev sat waiting in the middle of the river.  I was starting to wonder what to do next when I spotted a couple enjoying a walk on the towpath.  They obligingly helped push the gates and held them open until Kev had sailed through.    

The floods had brought debris down the river and also dislodged clumps of reeds.  As we left Dewsbury a large island of reeds, complete with resident ducks, blocked our path.  After gently running our bow into it and some manoeuvring with the barge pole the ducks left and their home floated off to the side.  

We stopped at Broadcut that night and were enjoying a quiet evening when a loud moo sounded very close.  A black bullock was walking up and down the towpath, distressed at being parted from the rest of the herd who were in a field further away.   As he walked back passed Brent III I went in the opposite direction to the local pub.  The landlady rang the farmers and before they arrived Kev herded the bullock into an empty field safely away from the canal.  

At Stanley Ferry we met up with Shaun, Laura, Nic, Gaz and all the grandkids.  We had a good get together which included a meal in the pub and then Bett-Lou stayed with us for a holiday.  During the next few days Bett-Lou had a busy time, helping with the locks, learning how to steer the boat, walking Bess and Brinny and bird spotting.  We saw a lot of herons, ducks and swans but were surprised to see a peacock landing in a garden.   There was also time for drawing, working on a collage and beating us at cards.  Bett-Lou's holiday ended at Viking Marina and we turned our attention to some maintenance.  

We'd noticed water was getting into the engine bay and prime suspect was the stern gland.  The propeller shaft runs from the engine through the stern tube and out into the canal.  The stern gland packing is thick cord wound round the shaft which is kept greased to stop canal water coming into the boat.  Kev replaced the cord and gave it a good greasing. 

The next morning the local news reported Lafarge at Whitwood will no longer be using the barges for transporting sand and gravel.  The redundant barges are moored up at Goole awaiting their fate.  As Lafarge was one of the last companies to use commercial barges in the north it could be the end of an era.  

Sand and gravel barges moored up at Goole

After leaving Goole we turned down the New Junction canal and on checking the engine bay were concerned to see we were still taking on water.  We pulled over and spotted the source, the bearing on top of the rudder was letting a flow of water through when the propeller was turning.  We carried on to Thorne with the little bilge pump working overtime. 

Bess and Brinny enjoying the view as we sail away from Goole.

  

On arrival at Thorne Kev dismantled the the casing around the top of the rudder and with a little help from a big hammer retrieved the bearing which was well and truly worn out.  He called City Seals and Bearings in Rotherham and spoke to Bill who was very helpful.  He checked the measurements to ensure it would fit in our boss before handing over the new bearing to Nic who had called in to collect it.  He also offered to come back to the shop after hours to change the bearing if it didn't fit and gave us his mobile number.  Nic passed the bearing to Shaun who then drove up to Thorne.  The new bearing fitted perfectly and resolved the leak so thanks to a combined effort we are back up and running.  

Our journey from Brighouse to Thorne.  From Goole to Thorne is marked in orange.

Water Levels

We left Brighouse with another narrowboat and so were able to share the locks which are shorter than those on other canals.  Manoeuvring both boats in and shutting the gates was sometimes a bit tricky.  The canal follows a wooded route through the Calder Valley and has an excellent towpath which is also a cycleway.  When walking with Bess and Brin I had to watch out for speeding cyclists.   At Elland the towpath takes a detour through an alley and up on to the main road to cross over to the other side of the canal, a bit of a mystery tour until you spot where the towpath starts again.  

At Salterhebble the bottom lock has an electric guillotine gate which replaced the original lock gates in the 1930s when a new road bridge encroached on the available space.   The other two locks at Salterhebble were manned by volunteers who warned us the water levels were low between the locks.  Happily we sailed through without any problem. 

Salterhebble guillotine lock - the grey box on the right is the control panel.  

The Calder and Hebble connects with the Rochdale canal in the busy boating town of Sowerby Bridge.  The hire boat company, Shire Cruisers, occupies one of the many wharves whilst the others are used for private and visitor moorings.   Enormous stone warehouses and other buildings crowd around the wharves and apart from the use of the buildings this area has hardly changed since the canal's heyday.  

Warehouses and the busy canal basin at Sowerby Bridge

On canals the locks are numbered, heading out of Sowerby Bridge the Rochdale Canal has Lock 3/4.  This isn't a watery route to Hogwarts but at 19 feet 8 inches  it is the deepest lock in the country and replaced the original locks 3 and 4.   The lock enabled the Rochdale Canal to be reopened in 1996 but the waterway was only completely reopened to Manchester in 2002. 

Lock 3/4 also known as Tuel Lane Lock

The Rochdale Canal is notorious for it's low water levels so we decided, as did several other boaters, to catch the train to Hebden Bridge and Todmorden.  

The dry weather came to an end with a big thunderstorm, luckily Bess and Brin weren't upset by it.  On the journey back to Brighouse we noticed the water levels were up and as we rounded a corner a willow tree was down across the canal.  There was just enough room for us to squeeze through but I had to move everything which could get caught up off the roof.  

Back at Brighouse Kev recognised Chris and Bernie, boaters who we enjoyed travelling with in 2011 on a holiday to Newark so we enjoyed a good chat.  On Saturday night heavy rain put the River Calder in flood, preventing boaters travelling to or from Brighouse.  During Sunday a queue of boats developed and a constant procession of boaters walked to the lock to check the water level indicator board.  This remained on red,  "Do not proceed", until tea time when the water had subsided enough for amber, "proceed with caution", to show.   By mid-morning Monday the water level was back down to green and the queue of boats had long gone so we set off on our return journey. 

The River Calder flooding - the river jetty is underwater with just the tops of the mooring bollards showing.  

Our journey from Brighouse to Sowerby Bridge and back.