Braunston

We left Northampton separately as I cycled ahead to set the first of 16 locks.  The water was very clear and I could see a motorbike on the bottom of the canal by the first lock; luckily the water was deep enough for Brent III to sail over the top.   By using the bike to go ahead and set the locks we were hoping for a quick run up the locks but our plans were thwarted by a slow moving boat ahead, time to put the kettle on.  

Pausing in the lock for a cup of tea

Eventually we reached the top lock and then sailed on to the scene of a crime which forced boaters to evacuate and shut the canal down for 5 days.   Someone had drilled into a pipeline carrying kerosene and an estimated 50,000 litres spilled into the canal.  Apparently when this activity is successful the thieves are able to insert a valve into the pipe to draw off the kerosene.   As we passed the pungent aroma of kerosene hung in the air and a team was still working to remove the pollution.  Their methods must have been very effective, we didn't see any sign of the pollution as we travelled up the canal.  

The pipe nearest the bridge was drilled near it's base on the right hand side.  The yellow bagging is containing the pollution 

At Gayton Junction we turned north onto the Grand Union and were immediately surprised at the amount of boat traffic, it was much busier than we were used to on the Nene and Fens.  There was an advantage to to being back on the canals, cheaper diesel.  At Nether Heyford we stopped to fill our almost empty tank.  

The 7 locks at Buckby were busy with boats moving in both directions.  Shortly after finishing the flight we pulled over on to familiar moorings at Norton Junction.  The next day we decided to start early so we could go through Braunston Tunnel and the 6 locks before the canal became busy.   We were quicker than expected, passing the canal shop at the bottom lock as it opened at 8am. 

The canal shop has a range of stock for boaters including basic groceries, ice creams, souvenirs and second hand books.

15 minutes later we were looking for a mooring at Braunston but were a bit early, no-one had moved on yet.  Luckily we were able to squeeze into a gap and call it a day.  

Braunston was especially busy because a historic boat rally was taking place the following weekend and some of the moorings were reserved for them.  Some historic boats arrived, Jules Fuels working boat was selling diesel, narrow boats passed through and above it all there was a strange noise in the air, a drone was filming over the canal.  

A spy in the sky - a drone filming the canal

We're used to ducks coming over when we open the side hatch but a duck at Braunston was very cheeky,  it flew up onto the gunwhale and had a look in.  

Is there anything to eat?

On Sunday the rain stopped and the sun came out much to the relief of the Braunston gardeners who were having an open day in aid of the Macmillan Nurses.  I had an interesting afternoon pottering around the gardens admiring their colourful displays.  One garden had a fig tree with some fruit on it.  The owner told me there are several fig trees in the village and they even have a category for them in the village show.  

A colourful display in one of the gardens

That evening I took the girls on a walk back to Braunston Tunnel.  We left the towpath at the tunnel entrance and took the track up the hill following the route of the tunnel.  At the side of the track an unassuming round brick structure, the tunnels air shaft, is the only clue to the feat of engineering below.

The air shaft looks surprisingly small from the outside 

Our journey from Northampton to Braunston

Back to the Canals

The weather turned cold as we left Irthlingborough, cold enough for Bess to retreat back inside.  We are used to the river's twists and turns but the approach to Irthlingborough old bridge is unusual because the deep channel runs parallel to the low arches before turning sharply to go under the navigation arch. 

Travelling parallel to the bridge before turning under the higher navigation arch

We stopped at Wellingborough where I walked up into the town and found an excellent museum housed in part of a former swimming pool.  The pool was filled in when a shoe factory took over the building but small areas have been excavated and you can see down to the original tiles.   The museum is run by volunteers who have packed their limited space with an interesting array of exhibits and displays.  

The next day we were busy with locks but in one we had a surprise; we were sharing it with a large grass snake.   It swam to the corner of the guillotine gate looking for a way over and as it worked it's way up Kev gave it a hand with the boat hook.  Once on the other side it rapidly swam away and Kev was very relieved to see it go. 

The snake looking for a way over the gate

Billings Marina was our destination that day but we had some trouble finding the entrance which wasn't signed at all.  After turning round we located the narrow channel which wound round and led into the hidden marina.  The floating pontoons didn't look as if they'd been designed for narrowboats, they were way to short and once moored up we were partially blocking the access channel.  

A long boat on a short jetty at Billings Marina

Billings Marina is part of Billings Aquadrome, a 230 acre caravan and camping site.  On Friday evening Shaun, Laura, Nic & Gaz and their families, came down with their caravans to join us.  The rain held off for us to enjoy barbecues in the evenings and we had a lovely weekend.  

On Sunday afternoon we went our separate ways and we sailed passed the enormous site on our way to Northampton where we stopped for our last night on the River Nene.  

One of the American style caravans viewed from the river as we passed the site

On Monday morning we sailed upstream, passed the Carlsberg Brewery and then turned into Northampton Lock and onto the canal.   We didn't travel much further, just to the Cotton End moorings at the other side of the lock.  We've thoroughly enjoyed our trip to the Fens and will certainly return for another visit.  

The Carlsberg brewery but the occasional aroma of hops doesn't smell very appetising

Our journey from Irthlingborough to Northampton

Winds

We had arrived at Fotheringhay in a strengthening wind and during the evening this picked up.  By bedtime the gusts were blowing hard against us, rattling the solar panels which continually tapped on the roof above our bedroom.  It wasn't the best night's sleep but thankfully everything was still in one piece in the morning.  As the wind didn't seem so strong we set off but soon strong gusts started to blow against Brent III pushing her off course.   After some tricky exits from locks we pulled over onto the Oundle Cruising Club mooring where a family of Egyptian Geese have taken up residence.  The goslings came over to see if there were any titbits while the gander watched, becoming very vocal if he thought his brood was threatened.

Egyptian goslings making do with grass in the absence of bread

The next day the winds had dropped and we sailed the short distance to one of our favourite moorings, the idyllic garden at the Kings Head in Wadenhoe.  We stopped for 3 nights, enjoying some excellent meals in the pub and watching the birds in the garden.  As Wadenhoe has no through road there is little traffic and the majority of the houses are owned by a trust so it has retained it's original character.  

Thatched and pantiled houses in Wadenhoe 

We decided to move on Saturday only to see winds had been forecast again.  We set off early and arrived at Islip as the wind started to gust.  Nearby intrepid members of the Middle Nene Sailing Club ventured out onto Thrapston Lagoon, the sails on their boats flapping noisily.   I enjoyed a walk around the large lake with Bess and Brinny and was surprised at the size of the waves whipped up by the wind.  

Waves  created by wind on Thrapston Lagoon, the sailing club is barely visible on the far side. 

Opposite our mooring a break in the bank has created a watering hole for a herd of young cows and it was visited by a variety of birds during the day. 

Canada geese visit the watering hole

On Monday we continued along the river which took a winding route through pretty countryside. 

Looking across to Woodford Church, a line of boat roofs under the trees indicate the route of the river

At Irthlingborough a group of school girls had lifted their canoes out of the river to take them round the lock.  They paused to admire Bess who always steals the show sitting on the roof.  
We moored up at Irthlingborough opposite the Stanwick Lakes Country Park.  The park is self-funding and recreation plays an important role in raising income.  There are no watersports here but a visitor centre and various land-based activities for younger visitors provide the attraction.    The paths are very wide tracks which spoils the walk but they are redeemed by the sculptures along the way.

Sculpture depicting the wildlife at Stanswick Lakes

Our journey from Fotheringhay to Irthlingborough

Back on the Nene

At Salters Lode I took a walk with my camera and this photo of the Old Bedford River shows a typical view of the Middle Levels. 

The Old Bedford River stretches to the horizon

From Salters Lode we set off across the Middle Levels on the Old Nene which was slow going because the waterway is shallow, narrow and has plenty of bends. 

Travelling on the Old Nene

At Upwell we stopped on the unusual moorings which are maintained by the Well Creek Trust.   They've created seating and a garden on the bank side and in among the flowers we spotted strawberry plants, a gooseberry bush, rhubarb and even a young grape vine.  

Leaving the moorings at Upwell

The next day we continued at a slow pace until reaching Marmont Priory Lock which took us into deeper waters.  The moorings at March were busy but luckily as we arrived another boat was just leaving.   

The wind was blowing as we left March and as we sailed along the wide drains we noticed a strange phenomenon.  Whichever direction we travelled we always seemed to be sailing head-on into strong wind.  On arrival at Whittlesey we were sheltered from the wind and enjoyed sitting out in the park next to the mooring.    Sailing out of the town we negotiated the infamous Whittlesey Bend, a right angled turn on a narrow section of the drain.  

 

Approaching Whittlesey Bend 

We seem to have been fated with heavy rain whenever we've booked a passage through a lock on this trip and Stanground Lock was no exception.  Luckily we didn't have long to wait before the lock-keeper put us through onto the River Nene.  The moorings at Peterborough were just a short distance away.  

On Saturday the weather brightened and we sailed out of Peterborough passing under several bridges. 

Sailing out of Peterborough

Our next destination was Ferry Meadows Country Park which had been recommended by other boaters.  We nearly missed the narrow entrance channel which cut through a wood and led to an enormous lake.  Two pontoons provided visitor moorings in this wonderful setting. 

A humorous sculpture of a duck family in the country park with Brent III on the pontoons in the background

The country park was busy with the last event of the Spring Bank Holiday, a wildlife day.  Groups of children were scooping out aquatic creatures with fishing nets or wafting large bug nets while others were busy completing quiz sheets.  The park was also busy with outdoor activities; sailing, canoeing, kite flying and groups of people making good use of the barbecue facilities.  I enjoyed a long walk round and a carved wooden owl in a tree caught my eye.

A carved wooden owl in a tree

The Nene Valley Railway runs alongside the park and I was lucky to see a steam engine.  Just after I'd taken the picture a huge amount of that black smoke billowed out and totally obscured my view. 

Nene Valley steam engine

The next day we moored at the Nene Valley Railway station at Wansford and I hoped to see another steam engine.  Although the train was running it was being pulled by a drab diesel engine but at least we weren't engulfed by smoke when it passed. 

Rain and strong winds were forecast on Monday so we set off early heading back through woodlands and countryside which has some gentle hills.  The landscape has changed dramatically from the flat Fens.  Once again we saw the red kites soaring overhead and Kev soon had his camera out. 

Kev took this amazing photo of a red kite

The wind was picking up in strength as we tied up for the day at Fotheringhay.  The lambs have grown bigger and bolder since we were last here and came over to look in the windows and have a nibble at our fender ropes.  

A curious lamb looks in

Our journey from Salters Lode to Fotheringhay