Frouds Bridge Marina to Crofton

Our stay at Frouds Bridge Marina was extended by another day to avoid travelling in heavy rain.  Moorhens are very good nest builders and will use any location to their advantage, in the marina one cheeky bird had made it's nest on someones back deck.  

Feeding chicks in the nest on a boat

On Thursday we set off for Newbury.  The Kennet and Avon Canal is a connected series of rivers and after the heavy rain the River Kennet was fast flowing especially at the bottom of the locks where weir streams reconnect with the navigation.  We made good progress but after 8 miles, 10 locks and 5 swing bridges we were pleased to see empty moorings in Newbury.  

Newbury was a pleasant place to stop so we stayed over the weekend, shopping in the good selection of shops and enjoying breakfast in the Toby Carvery.  We haven't seen a charity shop for a while so we took the opportunity to donate some books and buy some more.  On Sunday we had a stroll around the monthly artisan market.  

Newbury's clock tower

On Monday we sailed through Newbury Lock and out of town.

Looking under the town centre bridge to Newbury Lock 

The canal quickly took us back into a rural setting and through some more locks.  As we waited at one lock a deer kept an eye on us; it had a fawn nearby, hidden in the long grass.

The deer kept a watchful eye on us 

On Tuesday we arrived in Hungerford, a small town with some quaint buildings and for its size, a lot of antique shops.  We stayed for a couple of nights on the quiet moorings.  

On the moorings at Hungerford next to the Kennet & Avon Trust trip boat, Rose of Hungerford.

Hungerford Lock took us up onto the River Dun, a quiet river which is much calmer than the Kennet.  It took us onto the gently rolling hills of the Wessex Downs and as we climbed up through the locks the river water turned a cloudy grey with chalk deposits.  We made a spur of the moment decision to stop in the tranquil setting at Potters Lock.  

On Friday we travelled a short distance to Crofton and moored up near the Crofton Beam Engine House.  

On Saturday morning a man walked down the towpath with a stepladder which he stood up on the grass in front of the lock.  When he started setting up a camera we realised he must be a train spotter, in an ideal position for the rail track opposite.  Over the next hour a group of train spotters gathered.

Train spotters in position

 Brent III's roof gave us a good view as The Flying Scotsman steamed passed on its way to Salisbury. 

 

The Flying Scotsman

Our journey from Frouds Bridge Marina to Crofton

Marlow to Frouds Bridge Marina

The rain hammered down while we were moored at Marlow and it was damp and misty as we set off on Wednesday morning.  We've seen some grand properties on the banks of the Thames but Medmenham Abbey stands out; it's up for sale, 10 bedrooms for £10 million.  

Medmenham Abbey

The rain started again so we pulled up on a farmer's moorings.  Curious lambs watched us as did a red kite.  

A damp red kite watched us 

The next day we sailed through Henley-on-Thames where preparations for the famous regatta were underway.  

Sailing into Henley-on-Thames, the posts in the river mark out the rowing course for the regatta

Rowing clubs and boat houses line the banks along with various hostelries. 

This interesting building caught my eye

After Henley Lock we found a rural mooring opposite a small island which was unfortunately inhabited by raucous geese who periodically emerged onto the river squawking noisily.  We took a walk upstream and saw the Grand Design house which caused some controversy with the neighbours at Lower Shiplake.  

The modern design which wasn't popular

On Friday we set off but were pushing against strong currents after the recent heavy rain so we stopped at the next lock, Shiplake.

At Shiplake with strong currents from the weir on the other side of the mooring.

We were moored opposite a tiny island and during the day we could see a roe deer peeping out from the undergrowth.  That evening it made it's escape, swimming across to the lock island and climbing out in front of the lock.  It then swam across the width of the Thames through the fast flowing weir currents which were carrying it down-stream.  We watched anxiously until it reached the far side and climbed out on the steps up to a property.  The home-owner came running out after the deer crossed in front of his house and he checked it had made its way safely into the fields.  

The deer on the bottom step which was underwater after the heavy rain

After Shiplake Lock we had one more lock on the Thames before Reading and the entrance to the Kennet and Avon Canal.  The canal starts with the River Kennet which has strong currents through a narrow stretch of bridges and bends in Reading.  As there's only room for boats to travel in one direction there's a traffic light system in place; similar to a pedestrian crossing, you press a button and wait for a green light before proceeding.   That night we stopped on the outskirts of Reading and on Sunday we were soon sailing through open countryside.  

We came across some unusual locks, Garston Lock is a 'turf-lined' lock, one of two surviving examples of this method of lock construction on the river.  The lock chamber is partially open with vegetation growing at the sides and pilings which define the shape of the lock.  

The turf-lined lock, the water level rises to the top iron bar when the lock is filled flooding over the vegetation.  

Sheffield Lock is a scheduled ancient monument and has unusual scalloped walls which look new because the lock was repaired and renovated during this year's winter stoppages.  

Scalloped edges on Sheffield Lock's chamber

During the next couple of days we didn't travel very far.  A quiet riverbank mooring enticed us to stop on Monday and on Tuesday we pulled into Frouds Bridge Marina for diesel and decided to stop overnight.  

Our journey from Marlow to Frouds Bridge Marina

Teddington to Marlow

From Teddington the Thames took us passed grand abodes at Hampton Wick, Kingston Upon Thames and Thames Ditton and the grandest of all, Hampton Court Palace.  We were surprised to see visitor moorings near the palace gardens and pulled over for the day. A decorative gold fence gleamed in the sunshine but I had to manoeuvre my camera through the outer railings to take a photo.  

The decorative fence at Hampton Court

Hampton Court Palace has an amazing array of chimneys

The chimneys

and an impressive entrance.

The entrance to Hampton Court Palace

The next day we went through our first boater operated lock on the Thames and I was pleased to find it had electric controls.   Over the next couple of days we sailed west passing several islands which were crammed with an assortment of buildings, from prefab style chalets to the latest designs in steel and glass.  

One of the islands with assorted houses

There were also rows of houseboats.

Some of the Thames houseboats

After overnight stops at Walton on Thames and Laleham we arrived at Runnymede where King John placed his seal on the Magna Carta.  Today the National Trust owns the site and, in common with most places on the Thames, charges a mooring fee.  As it was a beautiful spot we stopped for 2 days and spent some time watching the bright kingfishers flying low over the river.  Unfortunately we didn't take any photos good enough for the blog.  We also saw more of the green parakeets which have been a familiar sight on the Thames. 

One of the green parakeets

Runnymede has various memorials and an interesting artwork, The Jurors by Hew Locke.  It was commissioned for the sealing of the Magna Carta and consists of 12 bronze chairs decorated front and back with images and symbols representing freedom and equal rights.  

A Chinese xiezhi, a legendary symbol of justice and law 

On Sunday we decided to move on and set off later than usual giving the weekend boaters time to set off for home but that didn't work out as planned.  The river was relatively quiet as we sailed around Windsor's Home Park with it's 'Crown Estate' and 'no mooring' signs.  After sailing under Windsor Bridge we were confronted with mayhem.  Little hire motor boats swarmed across the river, competing with canoes and rowing boats, large trip boats somehow managed to cut a path through the chaos and the main moorings were all taken.  Round the bend we spotted a space and tied up to some trees.  Almost immediately the mooring attendant arrived for the fee.  

We were moored on the Eton side of the river so I walked up to the famous school to have a look at it's fabulous buildings. 

One of the interesting old buildings at Eton

Then I walked across the bridge into Windsor which was extremely busy in the glorious sunshine.

Looking across the busy park and river to Windsor Castle

On Monday morning the river was quiet as we set off.  We passed Windsor Castle Marina advertising it's fuel prices and were glad we didn't need to fill up.

Extortionate fuel prices

We stopped at Maidenhead for shopping and then moved on; we don't mind paying for moorings in good locations but not at the side of a busy road.  We didn't have to go far before finding a free mooring next to woods on the Cliveden Estate.  Heavy rain stopped us enjoying any walks in the woods and the next day we kept our wheelhouse up as we sailed on to Marlow in more rain.  


Our journey from Teddington to Marlow

Bishops Stortford to Teddington Lock

Our return journey on the picturesque River Stort continued and at Harlow we stopped for water.  Unfortunately our hose sprang a leak and so I saw more of Harlow than intended as I walked up to Argos for a replacement.  

We rejoined the River Lee and sailed back south stopping again at Waltham Abbey.  This time I used my Oyster card to catch  a train to Walthamstow for a look round the excellent William Morris Gallery.  

The William Morris Gallery houses a selection of examples from the Arts and Crafts Movement

On Sunday we completed our journey on the River Lee by sailing back into London where we moored up in Limehouse Basin.

Moored up in Limehouse Basin

The Docklands Light railway took me into London where I joined the tourists for some sightseeing.  My first stop was the Monument to the Great Fire of London where I climbed the 311 steps to the top for some good views across the city.  

Looking down to Tower Bridge from the Monument

Then I enjoyed a wander around the streets and was particularly impressed by Leadenhall Market. 

The City of London dragon with the red cross of St George is used in the decoration of Leadenhall Market

At 6.15 am on Bank Holiday Monday we were ready to enter Limehouse Lock to sail onto the Thames.  The lock itself was an experience; it has curved gates which pivot open and no sluices; the water levels are controlled by opening the gates.  The gates opened slightly and the water started flowing out creating some turbulence.  I could see why we'd been told to secure ropes fore and aft.  The lock-keeper opened the gates in increments and the last one created a larger gap and for a few moments a wall of water was suspended between the gates until it cascaded down into the river.  Then the gates opened and we sailed out onto the Thames.  

The tops of the skyscrapers were hidden in clouds but the approach to Tower Bridge gave us a good view of the famous landmark. 

Approaching Tower Bridge

The Tower of London followed Tower Bridge. 

The Tower of London

 There are numerous bridges in Central London and the Port of London Authority has a system of lights to aid navigation; 2 amber lights indicate the main channels. 

Looking through the bridge arches 

We sailed passed Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.

Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament

As we continued passed Pimlico and Battersea new blocks of apartments lined the river and there were plenty more under construction.  At Putney we had some company on the river, the rowing boats were out practicing and overtook us.   At Hammersmith we saw a familiar name on an unusual building.  

Harrods furniture depository

At Richmond we encountered an unusual navigation feature, the shallow weir is under enough water to allow navigation except at low tide.  As we approached we could see the weir barriers were down but the lock keeper advised us they were about to be lifted.  There is a lock that can be used at low tide but it incurs a charge of £7 so we were happy to wait. 

The red top weir barriers block the river until the water levels are high enough, the 3 red lights in a triangle indicate the arch is closed. The lock is in the left hand arch and the sign advises of the charges.

The river took us round Twickenham and on to Teddington Lock, the limit of the tidal Thames and a convenient place to moor up.  

Our journey from Bishops Stortford to Teddington Lock