Sowerby Bridge to Viking Marina

We set off from Sowerby Bridge in good spirits, the Rochdale Canal was behind us and the Calder & Hebble Canal was considerably deeper.  

The basin at Sowerby Bridge

We soon arrived at the 3 Salterhebble Locks where a team of volunteers were waiting to assist us.  Both boats sailed into the top lock, the paddles were opened and down went the water but then we discovered the boats were too long to open the front gates.  The volunteers refilled the lock and we backed out so Geordie Spirit could go down alone, she was sat diagonally across the lock which left enough space to open the gates.  

Geordie Spirit descending the first lock.  The volunteer on the left is holding a Calder & Hebble handspike which is used to operate the ratchet style lock gear found on this canal.  We used a piece of wood which later came in useful for the fire.

All the locks on this canal are a similar size, some were just big enough for both boats together and others we had to descend singly.    The canal suffered flood damage in 2015 and extensive repairs to the canal banks, towpaths and bridges have since been completed to reopen the waterway.  

Elland Bridge which had to be rebuilt after the floods

We moored up in Brighouse Basin and awoke to torrential rain on Friday; it stopped mid-morning so off we went onto the first river section.  The waterway was built by linking navigable sections of the River Calder with a series of canals and as we sailed on the river sections we noticed their currents were getting stronger.  The flood gates were all open until we arrived at Mirfield where the Ledgard flood lock was closed.  We were able to go through but noticed that since setting off the river level had come up and was now in the red (do not proceed) on the navigation board.  We moored up in Mirfield and for a change sat out in the sun for our cuppa. 

On Sunday the river level had dropped so we set off and continued to Millbank and the next day we sailed the canal section to Durkar.  As we approached Broadcut Lock we could see the river running parallel to the canal and it looked very high so we stopped for the day.  When we heard Storm Aileen was approaching we prepared for a long wait, an Asda delivery stocked up our supplies and some logging provided fuel for our fires.  There was plenty of time to walk into the village for an excellent fish & chip meal at the Kingfisher Cafe.

At midday on Thursday we received an email from CRT, the flood gates were being opened.  We didn't waste any time in setting off along with a couple of other boats who had been waiting.  The river took us into Wakefield where Brent III was built at West Riding Marine.

The river at Wakefield, West Riding Marine was in front of the white roofed building on the left.

Fall Ings Lock at Wakefield is a big river lock with heavy gates but it was our last manual lock.  We gladly exchanged our windlasses for a waterways key to operate the electric control panel on the locks.  At Stanley Ferry we passed the CRT yard where replacement lock gates are made; some were stacked up ready for the winter stoppages. 

Lock gates stacked up in the yard

We sailed through to Castleford and moored up on the old commercial moorings.  Our original plan had been to visit York but after our recent experience with high river levels decided against this because the River Ouse is notorious for flooding.  From Castleford we sailed to the top of the New Junction Canal and from there it was a short journey to sail home to Viking Marina for the winter.  

This year we've sailed 1011 miles and come through 620 locks, the map shows the waterways we travelled.

Manchester to Sowerby Bridge

Tuesday 29 August was our fifth anniversary of leaving Viking Marina to start our travels on the canal network.  It was also the day we sailed out of Manchester on the Rochdale Canal with Geoff & Chris.  The first locks are known as the Rochdale 9, they link the Bridgewater to the Ashton Canal and remained open when the rest of the canal fell into dereliction during the 1940s.  

Looking down at one of the Rochdale 9 locks with a smart bar on the right hand side, unfortunately the towpath wasn't very savoury in places.

At the top of the 9 the canal flows under a building which is supported on pillars standing in the water.

The towpath is carried on a footbridge under the building at the top of the Rochdale 9

We made good progress up the 9 and continued out of the city through Ancoats.  At Lock 81 (we started at 92) we met a boat coming down.  They looked thoroughly fed up and had tales of woe about the state of the canal.  At that moment Geordie Spirit and Brent III, travelling side by side, became ensnared in a continental quilt which stalled both engines.  

After that incident things went downhill, we made slow progress as we came across low pounds which had to be topped up from the pound above so most of the way we were draining down water.  Rubbish of every description was either sticking out of the water or fouling our props and at Newton Heath there was a car in the canal with 2 boys jumping on it.  At Failsworth the local youths threw things at the boats but weren't a good enough aim to do any damage.  We continued through Chadderton where the canal started to improve and moored up outside the Rose of Lancaster pub, named in our guide as a safe haven.   Needless to say a drink in the pub was very welcome after the day we'd had.  

It could only get better and the next day it did, no empty pounds and nothing round the prop.  We climbed 10 locks and stopped short of Rochdale. 

The next day the canal deviated from it's original course because the M62 embankment had been built across the then derelict canal.  The new route took us through a culvert under the M62 and into the outskirts of Rochdale.  Once again the canal looked like the rubbish strewn canals of the 1960s.  On either side of the central channel shopping trolleys, wheelbarrows, bikes etc stuck out of the water and within the channel we were picking up the usual rubbish on the prop.  As we approached Littleborough we met a boat coming in the opposite direction; it was August Bank Holiday week and we'd only seen 4 other boats on this canal. We also had our first sight of the hills and for the first time enjoyed the view.

A sight for sore eyes and the promise of better views ahead

At Littleborough we came across another empty pound, apparently it drains out overnight but after going through the next lock we were rewarded with a good mooring and views towards the summit level.  

The next day we had to stay put, it was a Friday and the locks either side of the summit are closed on Mondays and Fridays to allow the water levels to recover.  The reservoirs which originally fed the canal were sold off in 1923 when the canal company ran into financial difficulty.  A limited supply of water is bought in from the utilities company which now owns the reservoir and I should think most of that flows away through leaking locks and pounds.

On Saturday we started climbing the last 10 locks to the summit but once again came across an empty pound.  CRT staff came along and gave us a hand and Lock 37, the highest broad lock in England, took us onto the summit level.  And in case your wondering (because we did) the highest lock in England is a narrow lock on the Huddersfield Narrow Canal. 

Sunshine on the summit level which is 600 feet above sea level

At the next lock we started our descent and crossed the county boundary into Yorkshire.  We moored up shortly afterwards and the dogs had a game on the towpath.

Ted and Ziggy get on well despite the difference in size

On Sunday we started our descent in earnest but the canal was better in Yorkshire, more water, a lot less rubbish and no trouble from the locals.  The bottom gates on lock 31 had been modified because their balance beams would be sticking out onto a track.  It is quite common to see balance beams at an angle to the lock gate when space is restricted but this lock had a ratchet system with it's own windlass. 

The ratchet to open the shortened gates at lock 31

We sailed passed the high brick wall which is a retainer wall for the railway embankment at Todmorden.

Geordie Spirit dwarfed by the high brick wall 

We pulled onto the moorings and later went for a drink.  The Wellington was billed as the smallest pub in town but it may also have been the noisiest.  The White Hart was a big improvement until the fire alarm went off and we had to evacuate.  We were amused to see an old boy come out with his pint and toddle off up the street with it.  

On the moorings at Todmorden with 2 dogs watching the photographer

On Tuesday we sailed into Hebden Bridge, an upmarket town and tourist attraction. Unfortunately the persistent rain prevented me from getting my camera out but I did take a photo of the towns fancy millennium clock by sheltering in an opposite doorway.

The Millenium Clock at Hebden Bridge

On Wednesday we sailed into Sowerby Bridge and joined the queue for Tuel Lane Lock.  This new lock is 19 feet & 8 inches deep and because it replaced locks 3 and 4 it has been numbered lock 3/4.  

The massive gates of Tuel Lane Lock opening after we'd dropped nearly 20 feet

The lock-keepers who operated Tuel Lane Lock also took us down through locks 2 and 1 and onto the Calder & Hebble Navigation.  We were all relieved to be off the Rochdale Canal, some of the scenery had been picturesque and the Yorkshire mill towns were interesting but we certainly won't be back for a repeat trip.  

Our journey from Manchester to Sowerby Bridge

Croxton Flash to Manchester

We had easy travelling on Wednesday 23 August, just 3 miles and no locks.  The next day the canal took us through the Tata chemical works site at Northwich.

Sailing through the Tata chemical works site, we tried not to inhale too deeply as there were some strange odours in the air.

Our journey continued passed the Anderton Boat Lift and through the Barnton and Saltersford Tunnels.  Saltersford Tunnel is only 424 yards long but is so badly kinked you can't see end to end.  One way traffic is achieved by restricting the entrances to set times. 

The bends in Saltersford tunnel. 

We moored up after the tunnel but after lunch realised we were getting behind with our plans so, unusually for us, we set off again.  We had another wait for a timed entrance at Preston Brook Tunnel and finally moored up on the Bridgewater Canal. 

Waiting at the entrance to Preston Brook Tunnel

On Friday we had a good run on the lock-free Bridgewater Canal and stopped at Lymm, which has an unusual village cross.  The cross stands on a red sandstone outcrop and is a Grade 1 listed building.  

Lymm Village Cross with a pair of stocks in front of it.

There are numerous hostelries in Lymm but for us the Brewery Tap, the home of the micro-brewery, Lymm Brewing, was the obvious choice and the beer was excellent.

The next day we set off early and the mist rolled across the countryside as we headed towards Dunham Massey. 

The early morning view

Bess was sitting on the roof and something more than the early morning view caught her eye.

Sat up like a meerkat to get a better view

On Sunday our route into Manchester took us through Sale to the Waters Meeting Junction where we turned east.  A variety of bridges crossed the canal but you couldn't miss the Throstle Nest footbridge.

The well signed Throstle Nest Bridge

The canal took us through industrial and developing areas before arriving at the safe moorings in Castle Quay.  It was a short walk into the city centre which was still busy with events after the Pride Parade the day before.

Rainbow bunting over Canal Street for the Pride Parade celebrations

On Monday I met up with Jo and Haydn and went to see their new home before we returned to town and enjoyed an excellent meal in The Smokehouse.  

Our journey from Croxton Flash to Manchester

Birmingham to Croxton Flash

On Friday 11 August Sarah caught a train home and we sailed out of Birmingham on the Birmingham Main Line Canal.  A heron watched us pass from it's perch in a tree.  

The heron watched us from a tree

We were sailing on the 'new' canal constructed to reduce the travelling time by cutting across the loops of the old main line canal.  There were several junctions where remnant loops of the old canal left and then rejoined our waterway.

One of the many junctions with the old main line canal.

There were also a couple of aqueducts linking the old main line to canals heading south. 

One of the aqueducts.  In the background the canal narrows down to allow one boat through, out of sight is a similar channel on the right hand side.  We assumed these islands where built for toll purposes as there were several on the canal.

We found a place to moor away from the industrial areas and the nearest houses were 200 yards away behind some trees on the opposite bank.  What we didn't notice was the large marquee in one of the back gardens and all was quiet until the party started.  The very loud bass vibrated through Brent III and through our heads for most of the night until 11pm.  

The next day we sailed up to Tipton Green Locks where Kev picked up a passenger, 3 year old Josh who clearly thought steering the boat was more fun than walking the dog with his Dad.  Josh rejoined his Dad after the third lock and we continued on a narrower, shallower canal.  We pulled up for the day at Wolverhampton at the top of the 21 Wolverhampton Locks.  

Moored up at Wolverhampton with the top lock in the background

I had a walk around the town and found Wolverhampton had a trail of decorated wolf statues and a collection of smaller versions in the museum. 

Some of the wolves in the museum

On Sunday we were up early to go down the locks.  After the second lock we had an empty pound which didn't take much filling but then a walker told us the long pound between locks 16 and 17 had drained out.  We had to let water down from the locks above it before we could continue and finish the flight.  At Aldersley Junction we turned onto the Staffs & Worc canal heading north and when we moored up it was well away from any houses or marquees.  

During the next 2 days we continued to sail north using early morning starts to avoid the queues at locks.  This section of canal seemed to be very popular with hire boaters sailing in a ring from the Shropshire Union.  

Early morning mist near Tixall

On Wednesday we turned onto the Trent & Mersey at Great Haywood Junction and sailed on to Weston-Upon-Trent where we enjoyed an excellent lunch in the Saracens Head.  The next day we were back in the pub car park, meeting Shaun who was dropping off some deliveries and Little Ted who is going to have a boating holiday.   It has to be said Bess and Brinny weren't overjoyed to see Ted but, unfazed, he soon settled in.

Little Ted enjoying a walk on the towpath

Our journey continued through Stone and on Saturday we arrived at Stoke-on-Trent where our early start enabled us to pull onto the Toby Carvery moorings and enjoy one of their breakfasts.  

On Sunday we sailed up to the Harecastle tunnel and waited for the first passage at 8am. The tunnel is 2926 yards long and is narrow so has one-way traffic.  Before entering the tunnel we had a run through safety and emergency procedures with CRT staff who advised we would be in the tunnel for 40 minutes.  

Waiting for the first passage through Harecastle Tunnel.  The curved black and white bar shows the lowest height restriction in the tunnel.

We were the first in the tunnel with one other narrowboat following; when both boats were in there was a loud roar and rush of air as the fans were switched on.  In the lowest section the uneven tunnel roof closed in on us and I could reach up and touch it with my hand.  Kev doesn't dawdle in tunnels and when we came out at the other end the tunnel-keeper called out to us "that was a nice quick one - 31 minutes".

We almost immediately came to the first lock at Kidsgrove and 5 more followed in quick succession.  They were in our favour and the only boats on the move were travelling in the opposite direction so the locks would continue to be in our favour.  While the going was good we kept going and descended another 8 locks before pulling over. 

During the next 2 days we came down another 17 locks into Middlewich where we stopped briefly for some shopping.  We then continued out into the country and found a quiet place to moor near Croxton Flash.

Our journey from Birmingham to Croxton Flash

Leamington Spa to Birmingham

On Wednesday 2 August Sarah joined us as Leamington Spa and as soon as she was on board we set off.  It was straight into action because shortly afterwards we climbed the 2 Cape Locks and then reached the foothills of the Hatton Flight.  The weather turned against us after 8 locks so we called it a day but later on we were able to walk up the flight.  

The Hatton Flight on our evening walk 

The next day we made short work of those locks and continued on to the embankment at Rowington.  It has become a tradition that Kev sets us a drawing challenge and we had our pencils out that afternoon to capture a set of allen keys with tricky handles.  

On Friday we sailed to Kingswood Junction and started ascending the Lapworth locks.  Once again we quickly found a routine and flew up the flight of 19 single locks.  

Looking back down the Lapworth Locks

We stopped for the day near Hockley Heath, an unremarkable village except for a McLaren showroom which was next to a Rolls Royce dealer.  

The next day brought heavy rain and the canal took us north-west; the shallow water made it slow work and ominous bumps vibrated through Brent III whenever she struck something on the bottom.  We moored up near Brandwood, just in time to miss a thunderstorm.  Later large hailstones pelted down, covering the towpath and floating on the canal.  

Happily the weather dried up and Sarah & I enjoyed an evening walk along the canal.  We walked up the footpath which took us up the hill at the eastern end of Brandwood Tunnel and were surprised to see a busy road junction and houses on top.  Finding the canal again was a challenge, it was hidden away down a side street. 

The western portal of Brandwood Tunnel

Our walk continued to Kings Norton Junction where the old toll house displayed the charges for transport on the canal. 

The canal tolls in 1894

On Sunday we sailed round to Bournville, the home of Cadburys.  The Cadbury family relocated their factory to the area and built housing and facilities for their workers in a village named after the local Bourn Brook.

Some of the original model village cottages with the factory in the background

Unfortunately a railway line runs alongside the canal and the next day we were woken up by the first trains.  We continued our journey into Birmingham and after some sailing round we found a good mooring on the Oozell Street Loop.  

Sarah & I enjoyed the sights of Birmingham including the new library and excellent museum.  This year Birmingham has a trail of colourful bears which are dotted around the city.

One of the bears on the towpath, in the background is the canal roundabout and behind that the Barclaycard Arena

The tour of the Jewellery Museum was enlightening and entertaining.  The owners of the Smith & Pepper jewellery factory closed the doors on their business in 1981 and it's just as they left it.  

The Smith & Pepper factory just as it was left

Later we walked down to the Bullring and as we looked down from a balcony a young starling landed on the barrier. 

The young starling

On Thursday we had the highlight of this trip - a day at the Festival of Quilts at the NEC.  To say it was busy would be an understatement but once inside the amazing display of quilts in a variety of sizes and colours was a feast for our eyes.  After admiring the designs and examining the techniques we looked around the trade stands and bought some lovely fabrics for our own creations.  

This striking quilt by Marjolien Paters was one of my favourites at the Festival of Quilts.  

Our journey from Leamington Spa to Birmingham

White Mills Marina to Leamington Spa

We left White Mills Marina on Friday 21 July and after climbing the remaining 8 locks on the River Nene we sailed straight into Northampton Marina.  The marina is owned by the Environment Agency and had a convenient footbridge over the Nene which shortened the walk into town.  

We stayed over the weekend and left on Monday morning.  Our first stop was on the moorings for a big shop at Morrisons, it will be sometime before we are near another supermarket.  We then sailed off the River Nene and through the CRT lock onto the Northampton Arm of the Grand Union canal.  5 miles and 17 locks later we moored up near Gayton Junction.  

The next day we turned north on the Grand Union and were surprised by how many boats were on the move.  On Wednesday we stopped at Fred Tarry's for diesel and a gas cyclinder before continuing on through Weedon Bec.  The drizzle turned to heavy rain and we knew where we wanted to stop.  Unfortunately we sailed straight passed it!  CRT have allowed the vegetation adjacent to the canal to grow up that much we didn't recognise the place where we'd previously moored.  We found another spot in sight of Buckby Locks and moored up for the day.  

On Thursday we had the bike out and made short work of the 7 Buckby Locks.  

The Top Lock at Buckby taken from the A5 road bridge

We sailed a little further on, passed Norton Junction, and moored up.  CRT had put up warning signs around a nearby wasps nest but that didn't stop Kev and he paid the price, 4 stings. 

On Friday we were up early to sail through Braunston Tunnel before boats started coming in the opposite direction.  As we came down the 6 Braunston Locks other boats were on the move and we found plenty of space on the moorings.  

The view from the bridge at Braunston bottom lock and yes that heavy cloud did deliver

We had a walk round to Midland Chandlers but they weren't carrying the stock they used to and we came away with only one of the items we wanted.  The Boat House pub was also disappointing, poor service due to a lack of staff and the meals were reduced to a bare minimum.  Perhaps we should have settled for a snack at the Gongoozlers Rest cafe boat. 

The Gongoozlers Rest cafe boat moored up outside Braunston Marina

By early afternoon all the moorings were full and boats were still streaming passed.  Heavy rain didn't deter them either and some were still coming through at 8.30pm.  

On Saturday we moved on from Braunston and found a quiet spot not too far away on the way to Napton.  

On Sunday we had an early start but not early enough, we were stuck behind a slow-coach who was going so slowly we pulled over for a while to let him go ahead.  When we set off again he was only a lock in front of us at Calcutt and he let another boat's crew do all the work while he enjoyed a a cup of tea!  

After we came out of the last lock another slow boat pulled out in front of us, it was even slower than the first and at one point stopped in the middle of the canal so the helmsman could put on a coat.  Luckily we weren't intending to go much farther and we pulled up just short of the Stockton Locks.  

The next day we set off at 6.30am and already some boaters were preparing to go.   We made good progress going down the locks on our own and pulled up at 9.30am having completed 14 locks in 3.5 miles. 

Moored up in a quiet spot after a good 3 hours sailing

On Tuesday  we sailed through the remaining descending locks on this stretch of canal, the next locks will take us uphill.  We moored up on the rural outskirts of Leamington Spa ready to pick Sarah up from the station the next day.  


Our journey from White Mills Marina to Leamington Spa