Teddington to Marlow

From Teddington the Thames took us passed grand abodes at Hampton Wick, Kingston Upon Thames and Thames Ditton and the grandest of all, Hampton Court Palace.  We were surprised to see visitor moorings near the palace gardens and pulled over for the day. A decorative gold fence gleamed in the sunshine but I had to manoeuvre my camera through the outer railings to take a photo.  

The decorative fence at Hampton Court

Hampton Court Palace has an amazing array of chimneys

The chimneys

and an impressive entrance.

The entrance to Hampton Court Palace

The next day we went through our first boater operated lock on the Thames and I was pleased to find it had electric controls.   Over the next couple of days we sailed west passing several islands which were crammed with an assortment of buildings, from prefab style chalets to the latest designs in steel and glass.  

One of the islands with assorted houses

There were also rows of houseboats.

Some of the Thames houseboats

After overnight stops at Walton on Thames and Laleham we arrived at Runnymede where King John placed his seal on the Magna Carta.  Today the National Trust owns the site and, in common with most places on the Thames, charges a mooring fee.  As it was a beautiful spot we stopped for 2 days and spent some time watching the bright kingfishers flying low over the river.  Unfortunately we didn't take any photos good enough for the blog.  We also saw more of the green parakeets which have been a familiar sight on the Thames. 

One of the green parakeets

Runnymede has various memorials and an interesting artwork, The Jurors by Hew Locke.  It was commissioned for the sealing of the Magna Carta and consists of 12 bronze chairs decorated front and back with images and symbols representing freedom and equal rights.  

A Chinese xiezhi, a legendary symbol of justice and law 

On Sunday we decided to move on and set off later than usual giving the weekend boaters time to set off for home but that didn't work out as planned.  The river was relatively quiet as we sailed around Windsor's Home Park with it's 'Crown Estate' and 'no mooring' signs.  After sailing under Windsor Bridge we were confronted with mayhem.  Little hire motor boats swarmed across the river, competing with canoes and rowing boats, large trip boats somehow managed to cut a path through the chaos and the main moorings were all taken.  Round the bend we spotted a space and tied up to some trees.  Almost immediately the mooring attendant arrived for the fee.  

We were moored on the Eton side of the river so I walked up to the famous school to have a look at it's fabulous buildings. 

One of the interesting old buildings at Eton

Then I walked across the bridge into Windsor which was extremely busy in the glorious sunshine.

Looking across the busy park and river to Windsor Castle

On Monday morning the river was quiet as we set off.  We passed Windsor Castle Marina advertising it's fuel prices and were glad we didn't need to fill up.

Extortionate fuel prices

We stopped at Maidenhead for shopping and then moved on; we don't mind paying for moorings in good locations but not at the side of a busy road.  We didn't have to go far before finding a free mooring next to woods on the Cliveden Estate.  Heavy rain stopped us enjoying any walks in the woods and the next day we kept our wheelhouse up as we sailed on to Marlow in more rain.  


Our journey from Teddington to Marlow

Bishops Stortford to Teddington Lock

Our return journey on the picturesque River Stort continued and at Harlow we stopped for water.  Unfortunately our hose sprang a leak and so I saw more of Harlow than intended as I walked up to Argos for a replacement.  

We rejoined the River Lee and sailed back south stopping again at Waltham Abbey.  This time I used my Oyster card to catch  a train to Walthamstow for a look round the excellent William Morris Gallery.  

The William Morris Gallery houses a selection of examples from the Arts and Crafts Movement

On Sunday we completed our journey on the River Lee by sailing back into London where we moored up in Limehouse Basin.

Moored up in Limehouse Basin

The Docklands Light railway took me into London where I joined the tourists for some sightseeing.  My first stop was the Monument to the Great Fire of London where I climbed the 311 steps to the top for some good views across the city.  

Looking down to Tower Bridge from the Monument

Then I enjoyed a wander around the streets and was particularly impressed by Leadenhall Market. 

The City of London dragon with the red cross of St George is used in the decoration of Leadenhall Market

At 6.15 am on Bank Holiday Monday we were ready to enter Limehouse Lock to sail onto the Thames.  The lock itself was an experience; it has curved gates which pivot open and no sluices; the water levels are controlled by opening the gates.  The gates opened slightly and the water started flowing out creating some turbulence.  I could see why we'd been told to secure ropes fore and aft.  The lock-keeper opened the gates in increments and the last one created a larger gap and for a few moments a wall of water was suspended between the gates until it cascaded down into the river.  Then the gates opened and we sailed out onto the Thames.  

The tops of the skyscrapers were hidden in clouds but the approach to Tower Bridge gave us a good view of the famous landmark. 

Approaching Tower Bridge

The Tower of London followed Tower Bridge. 

The Tower of London

 There are numerous bridges in Central London and the Port of London Authority has a system of lights to aid navigation; 2 amber lights indicate the main channels. 

Looking through the bridge arches 

We sailed passed Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.

Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament

As we continued passed Pimlico and Battersea new blocks of apartments lined the river and there were plenty more under construction.  At Putney we had some company on the river, the rowing boats were out practicing and overtook us.   At Hammersmith we saw a familiar name on an unusual building.  

Harrods furniture depository

At Richmond we encountered an unusual navigation feature, the shallow weir is under enough water to allow navigation except at low tide.  As we approached we could see the weir barriers were down but the lock keeper advised us they were about to be lifted.  There is a lock that can be used at low tide but it incurs a charge of £7 so we were happy to wait. 

The red top weir barriers block the river until the water levels are high enough, the 3 red lights in a triangle indicate the arch is closed. The lock is in the left hand arch and the sign advises of the charges.

The river took us round Twickenham and on to Teddington Lock, the limit of the tidal Thames and a convenient place to moor up.  

Our journey from Bishops Stortford to Teddington Lock

Victoria Park to Bishops Stortford

Our visit to London came to an end and we travelled a short distance before turning off the Regents Canal and onto the short Hertford Union Canal.  1 mile and 4 locks later we joined the River Lee and turned north.  The banks of the River Lee proved to be as congested with moored boats as the canals we'd just left.  We were surprised to see several lifeboats moored up and given a new use.  

One of the lifeboats moored up on the River Lee

I was pleased to find Tottenham Lock was electrically operated but the next day discovered this didn't apply to all of the locks; some had an unusual combination of an electric operation of the heavier bottom gates but manual top gates and the rest were all manual.

We stopped at Waltham Abbey where the abbey church dominates the small town and the peaceful grounds of the former abbey make a good stroll. 

The church at Waltham Abbey

At Hoddesdon we turned onto the River Stort, a narrow, winding navigation with natural banks and low bridges. 

Bridge 7, a railway bridge, is luckily the lowest bridge on the River Stort.  Our chimney was laid down in readiness.  

The locks on the Stort are only 13 feet wide so can only take one narrowboat at a time, it also means we have to open both gates but handily they can be left open as we leave.  Interesting sculptures are a feature at some of the locks.  

3 carved balls at Burnt Mills Lock, Harlow

When we spotted a rare stretch of pilings we pulled over and moored up.  It was only later we realised how many trains were running to Stansted on the rail track which was about 10 yards from the canal.

On Saturday we sailed through Sawbridgeworth which has an interesting complex of new residences on the river side. 

New buildings line the river at Sawbridgeworth

We continued on to Bishops Stortford where the navigable river ends.   We were a bit miffed to find there were only 8 mooring spaces and they were all taken.  We were able to leave Brent III near the water point to go shopping and then had to sail back the way we had just come.  Shortly after leaving the town we found a place to stop but it had one drawback; we were under the flight path for Standsted.  

Ryanair coming in to land at Stansted

Our journey from Victoria Park to Bishops Stortford

Hemel Hempstead to Victoria Park, London

On Monday morning we resumed our journey towards London.  Brent III was travelling faster than the commuters in a mandatory traffic jam on the M25.

Sailing under standing traffic on the M25

The canal took us into Cassiobury Park, near Watford, where we moored up surrounded by woods and walks.  Nearby a rare breeds centre was home to flamingos, pelicans and other water birds; the next morning the dawn chorus was more raucous than usual.  After our first lock of the day we sailed under a pale blue London Underground railway bridge.  

The London Underground which is on the surface at Watford.

We sailed on into the quiet Colne Valley and from there into Uxbridge.  On Thursday we had only 1 lock to come down, the last of 52 locks since Marsworth.  Shortly after the lock we spotted a Tesco so called in for a big shop not knowing where the next supermarket would be, 5 minutes further on as it happened.  The canal was very quiet as we headed east with no-one else on the move and hardly any boats moored up until we reached Bulls Bridge Junction where we stopped for the day, opposite another supermarket.  

The next day we took the Paddington Arm heading north, initially through Southall and Northolt before emerging into an open area at Horsenden Hill.  Here we saw a green woodpecker, a turtle on a tree root and plenty of coots busy nest building and sitting on eggs. Before long we were back among the suburbs; Perivale, Alperton and then over the North Circular Aqueduct.  

Brent III apparently sailing herself over the aqueduct because Kev has ducked out of sight

In places there are long lines of moored boats along the canal so when we spotted an isolated spot near Kensal Green we moored up for the day.  At Willesden Junction I purchased an oyster card for travelling on London Transport, in my case the tube, and took my first trip into London emerging at Charing Cross for Trafalgar Square.  

Trafalgar Square from the balcony of the National Gallery, the weather could have been better.

On Saturday we decided to move further on as there were more visitor moorings ahead.  As we passed long lines of boats moored two abreast we realised our chances of finding a space were slim.  Little Venice is a canal junction and a renowned area with stately buildings overlooking the waterway.  Sadly the moored boats didn't compliment their setting.  From the junction we took the Regency Canal which took us under the short Maida Hill Tunnel.  

Leaving the Maida Hill Tunnel

The canal then wound round Regents Park and passed London Zoo but apart from the birds in the aviary we didn't see any animals.  Turning towards Camden we saw an unusual boat which is a chinese restaurant.  

The floating chinese restaurant

At Camden we had 3 locks and a small audience gathered with their cameras.  Bess sat proudly on the roof and as always attracted some attention.  After descending St Pancras lock we faced the 960 yard Islington Tunnel which is only big enough for one-way traffic.  Luckily no-one was coming in the opposite direction.  We continued east and the line of moored boats seemed continuous but it was interesting to see the various styles of buildings lining the canal.  Kev spotted one building which was constructed from shipping containers.    The towpath was busy with walkers and a lot of joggers. 

A shipping container building

Then we spotted a free mooring conveniently next to the large green open space of Victoria Park, for us the best mooring in town.  A London overground station, connecting to the tube network, wasn't far away and I enjoyed using the tube knowing I would never be far from a station.  Kev, however, was not impressed when we went to Camden Market which disappointingly was mainly a tourist market selling souvenirs,  a variety of fancy goods and clothes and although there was a mouth watering selection of takeaway food.  Market stalls were crammed into every available space and it was interesting to see them in the old stables and under the railway arches.  

Back at the mooring we found it was very quiet even though we were surrounded by other boats, with mooring space in such short supply we were very lucky to find the space.  

Our journey from Hemel Hempstead to Victoria Park, London

Yardley Gobion to Hemel Hempstead

On Sunday morning we left the countryside near Yardley Gobion and headed into Wolverton on the outskirts of Milton Keynes.  Here we stopped on the visitor moorings which are surrounded by new flats but no-one seems to stop on them overnight.  They are however useful for Tesco and when we returned with our shopping 3 other boats had also pulled up. We continued east though more Milton Keynes suburbs and then the canal turned north into Stanton Low country park which is a good place to stop.  I enjoyed a good walk with Bess and Brinny and spotted a kestrel in a tree; it stayed put for a while as I tried to creep up closer for a photo.  

The kestrel perched in its tree as I tried to creep close enough for a photo

  The next day the canal took us on its winding course round Milton Keynes.  We saw some of the new towns residences in a variety of styles but the majority of our route was flanked by public parks and footpaths.  At Fenny Stratford we encountered our only lock of the day but with a climb of only 1 foot it hardly seemed worth having a lock there.  We sailed on a couple of miles to find a quiet spot to moor up.  

On Tuesday we passed the Wyvern Shipping Company hire boat base at Leighton Buzzard and judging by the number of boats strung across the canal there weren't many hire boaters out.   

Wyvern Shipping Company leaves a small gap for boaters to pass.

Shortly after the town we stopped for the day.  On our afternoon walk I spotted the large white chalk lion carved on a slope at Whipsnade Zoo.

Whipsnade Zoo's chalk lion

The canal then cut across open countryside with locks at regular intervals.  At Seabrook Lock we were surprised to see a cat strolling casually across the lock gates.  It stayed to watch the proceedings as we went through the lock and luckily Bess and Brinny were fast asleep inside.

The cat at Seabrook Lock

We continued on up through Marsworth Locks and this took us onto new waters; in 2014 we turned back between these locks.  We passed the recently developed Marsworth Wharf and up the 7 locks to Bulbourne Junction where one of the old waterways buildings is now a decorative ironworks.

Kev's photo of the ornamental ironworks on display at Bulbourne Junction

After Bulbourne Junction the canal starts to descend steeply on its journey south and on Friday I used the bike to go ahead to set the locks.  The canal wasn't in a good state of repair; the towpaths were muddy and rutted and most of the lock chambers were leaking so badly they had to be left empty. This meant none were in our favour and we had to fill each one before before we could go down.  At Berkhamsted a large rubbish bin was floating in the lock but as it stayed against one corner we were able to pass through without a problem.  

Hemel Hempstead was the next town on our route and once again the bike came in handy for working the locks.  The visitor mooring outside Sainsburys was useful for shopping but as we prefer somewhere quieter to moor up we continued to the outskirts of the town.  And here we stopped for another day, after 2 busy days coming down 24 locks we decided to have Sunday off.  

Our journey from Yardley Gobion to Hemel Hempstead

Hawkesbury to Yardley Gobion

The Easter weekend brought out the boaters who seemed undeterred by Storm Katie.  On Easter Monday we underestimated the volume of rain due our way and had a soggy trip to Rugby where we stopped for shopping before continuing out into open countryside.  Once we'd moored up the sun came out and so did a water vole on the opposite bank.  We quickly had our cameras out to capture this now rare sight.  

The water vole on the opposite bank

The next day we sailed under bridge 69 which is painted to depict 'canals then and now'.

Canals then and now

There are three pairs of locks at Hillmorton and two of the pairs of locks have been used to display lines of verse written by Roy Fisher to commemorate the Canal and River Trust taking over from British Waterways.

Roy Fisher's words on the lock gates

On Wednesday we sailed into Braunston and were lucky to find a mooring as it was very busy.  The sun was shining so I enjoyed a walk around the picturesque village and later we walked up for an excellent meal in the Boathouse pub.  

Braunston cottages in the sunshine

We decided to have an early start on Thursday and we sailed through the mist to Braunston Locks.

Early morning at Braunston

Braunston Tunnel followed the locks, a long tunnel with a couple of kinks in it.  We had the tunnel to ourselves so Kev didn't waste any time, creating an interesting bow-wave in the confined space.  

As we approached Napton Junction we spotted Jules Fuels working narrowboat so tied up alongside for diesel and coal.  Our journey continued down the Buckby Locks and on to the outskirts of Weedon, a good days travelling.  

April Fools Day started with ice on the roof and as it was cold travelling we had a much shorter day, finishing at 9am having covered 6 miles.  I made good use of the spare time by sorting out some materials for a new patchwork project.  This, ironically, will be a storage bag for my fabrics which are stashed in various locations around Brent III. 

Kev doesn't like tunnels and on Saturday we had the 3057 yard long Blissworth tunnel ahead.  We passed the Blissworth boatyard and large red brick warehouse before disappearing into the black opening of the tunnel.  

Blissworth Tunnel boatyard and warehouse

Blissworth is a very wet tunnel with water streaming through the roof vents giving us several icy showers.  But at least it is straight and the small spot of light in the distance gradually increased in size and we sailed through without meeting other boaters.  We sailed on to a quiet spot near Yardley Gobion.  In the afternoon sun I enjoyed a walk with Bess and Brinny during which I spotted a heron which obligingly stood still for a photo.  
  

The heron watching us as I take a photo

Our journey from Hawkesbury to Yardley Gobion

Nottingham to Hawkesbury

After leaving Nottingham we wanted to cover some distance so our first stop was at Sawley and from there we moved on to the Rageley Boat Stop pub.  Here we made good use of the electric on the moorings and, as always, enjoyed an excellent meal in the pub.  

On Monday we called in at Midland Chandlers, Willington, to replace the rope that was stolen in Nottingham and we bought some extra to make smaller mooring ropes.  After following a boat crawling along on tick-over we eventually arrived at Burton-upon-Trent where our new steel chimney was dangerously close to a low bridge.  It slipped under the first girder but hit the second with a loud clatter and came off the top of the flue.  Luckily it was only bent and Kev was able to straighten it out, needless to say our Nicholson's guide has been duly annotated.  

We stopped a little further along at Shobnall Fields where a swathe of daffodils lined the moorings.  It seemed the locals liked the daffodils, we saw several come along to pick themselves a large bunch.  

Daffodils in bloom at Burton-upon-Trent

The next morning we made an early start to avoid the dawdlers.  On the way we passed the farm that advertises llama trekking. 

Llama's at the trekking centre.

Our early start paid off and we moored up at Fradley Junction having seen only one other boat on the move.  That evening we noticed a swan paddling up and down in the bottom of the narrow lock unable to get out; it's partner had more sense, she was waiting at the top.  Kev walked back with the windlass to flood the lock and reunite the couple.  

On Wednesday we arose to the lively dawn chorus from Fradley Nature reserve and, after Tuesday's success, had another early start.  Unfortunately this stretch of the Coventry Canal is shallow and contained a lot of debris which kept snagging round our prop.  It was a cold day, not the best for Kev to plunge his arms into the water to clear off the rubbish.  At Whittington the poly-tunnels for asparagus where up, covering a long stretch of fields next to the canal.

A small section of the poly-tunnels

Good Friday was a glorious spring day and we saw some other early starters as we climbed the 11 locks of the Atherstone Flight.  A quiet stretch of canal north of Nuneaton provided a good place to stop.  

 

Enjoying the sun near Nuneaton

From my viewpoint on the bridge I could also see the impressive Caldecote Hall which was built in 1880 and is now converted into apartments.  

Caldecote Hall

The next morning the wind was getting up and heavy rain was forecast.  On the outskirts of Nuneaton the canal became a floating rubbish dump and after seeing 4 tyres and a door floating along we expected more problems with prop fouling; luckily we were wrong.   We turned onto the Oxford Canal at Hawkesbury Junction and went a little way before stopping, it wasn't a pretty mooring but the weather was turning.  The canal was fairly busy during the rest of the day but boating in strong wind and driving rain is not for us.   

Our journey from Nottingham to Hawkesbury Junction