Towns & Country

The canal took us through the rundown outskirts of Chorley and back into rolling hills and woodlands.  We stopped at the top of Johnson's Hill Locks and enjoyed a house speciality, Indian curry, in the Top Lock pub.  The attractive countryside gave way to the suburbs of Blackburn and we continued passed derelict buildings and all sorts of floating debris.  We came up the Blackburn Locks with another couple who luckily had their strong grandson on board to help out.  

Away from the industrial towns there are spectacular views across open countryside to the distant fells.  We see the first ducklings of the year, a greylag gosling with it's protective parents and a foal on wobbly legs. 

A foal on wobbly legs with  fells in the background

 The canal wends it's way towards Burnley, curling round the hills as it follows the contours.   The M65 motorway runs alongside the canal and we crossed paths via bridges, aqueducts and the Gannow Tunnel which is 559 yards long. 

Travelling through the Gannow Tunnel which is about 10 feet wide.

At Burnley we passed through the Weavers Triangle, a conservation area for 19th Century industrial buildings.  Mill buildings with tall red brick chimneys and warehouses flank the canal.  Sadly many are in need of restoration.  

Turning the point of the Triangle we sail onto the Burnley Embankment also known as the Straight Mile and it's possibly the only straight section on the canal.  From here we had an interesting view of Burnley looking down on the town which is divided by the embankment.  On one side we had a bird's eye view of the busy bus station and on the other looked across the rooftops towards the football ground.  At ground level Burnley proved to be a good shopping centre.    

View from the embankment looking across the rooftops to the Burnley football ground. 

We continued to travel through industrial towns accompanied by the M65 until Barrowford.  Here a flight of 7 locks took us up into open countryside surrounded by distant hills.  This is the summit level (the highest stretch of the canal) and it's water supply comes from various reservoirs.  We were surprised to see the Barrowford Reservoir looked half empty but we aren't hoping for rain to fill it.  

Our journey from Adlington to Barrowford 

Leeds Liverpool Canal

The Leeds Liverpool continues to take us through a peaceful country park which has been reclaimed from colliery waste.  In the distance we could see a large structure looming over the canal.   It was a striking canal-side sculpture based on lock gates.

Bess and Brin standing in front of  "Unlock" a canal-side sculpture.    

 We started climbing the Wigan Flight of 21 locks in bright sunshine and immediately came across another type of lock mechanism.  Where space is limited there are no balance beams and the gates are opened using rack and pinion gear.  After the first 8 locks we had the option to moor up for the day but as everything was going well we continued up.   A boat coming in the opposite direction left the locks in our favour reducing the amount of work.

All was going well until after sailing into a lock we couldn't completely shut the gates.  Despite all our efforts a gap of a foot remained between the 2 gates.  An audience gathered and 2 cyclists kindly stopped to lend a hand but still the gates wouldn't shut.  Kev suggested opening the paddles on the front gates to see if the water pressure would push the gates shut.  At first nothing happened but then with a loud crash, making us all jump, the gates closed.  The crowd dispersed except for one man who helpfully advised us the canal was dry ahead. 

We thought he might have been exaggerating until we reached a stretch between the locks which had drained through an open ground paddle.  All that remained was a shallow stream, about a foot deep and a lot of mud.  Kev went ahead armed with a windlass and opened up the remaining locks to fill the stretch and alert the Canal & River Trust staff to the problem.  They gave us a welcome hand through the last few locks.

The wind continued to pick up so we found a good mooring and tied up with extra ropes.  That evening waves were whipped up along the canal and slapped against the side of the boat.   

At Adlington we decided to book into the White Bear Marina and make use of the electric hook up and good facilities.  On Saturday I caught the train to Preston for Jo and Paul's wedding.  The day was perfect, Jo looked lovely, Haighton Manor provided an excellent setting and it was great to see everyone.  Thanks to Glyn and Gillian who drove me back to Preston station on Sunday - I caught the train with a minute to spare!   
Our journey from Worsley to Adlington

Locks and more locks

We don't often make a schedule but as we have some dates to meet I put together a plan.  Our intention was to head south as we joined the Peak Forest Canal towards Whaley Bridge but as we turned in this direction we quickly realised the canal was going to be too shallow.  Luckily we were able to turn round and head north but unluckily this took us straight into the 14 locks forming the Marple Flight.  At the bottom of the Marple Flight we crossed over the Hyde Aqueduct and through the remains of a tunnel before mooring up.  Our planned quiet day had taken an energetic turn and my schedule was redundant. 

All that remains of Rose Hill Tunnel - one side wall, the towpath and a bridge at the far end.

An early start was required for the Ashton Canal which will take us east through Manchester.  The canal passes through built up areas and unfortunately there are limited safe moorings.  We see several shopping trolleys, their wheels sticking out of the water and a lot of rubbish as we travel along this stretch.  Anti-vandal locks prevent the lock paddles being opened by non-boaters but are fiddly to use. 

The first 18 locks are narrow so only one boat can descend at a time.  Fortunately another boat followed us down so we were able to assist each other.  For the first time in 45 years Kev rode a pushbike, flying down the towpath to the next lock with Bess running alongside.  

At Dulcie Street Junction the Ashton Canal joined the Rochdale Canal and the next 9 locks were wide enough for both our boats.  After the first lock the canal flowed under a tower block and we sailed between 2 rows of large concrete columns which support the building.  After descending through the next lock we emerged into daylight below road level but we could still catch glimpses of the busy city.  

As this was Manchester we weren't surprised when it started raining and were looking forward to mooring up after the last lock but the bottom gates were leaking badly.  This stopped the lock filling so we couldn't open the top gates to get into the lock.  Eventually we decided brute force was needed and 5 of us managed to swing the gate open.   Shortly afterwards we were pleased to be moored up at Castlefield.   

Sailing out of Manchester on the Bridgewater Canal was a far more leisurely affair.  There were no locks and the canal is deep.  We passed new tower blocks with offices facing the canal and through industrial areas before seeing the Manchester United football ground. 

Manchester United football ground from the canal

The sight of the freight terminal brought back memories of Kev's lorry driving days as this was a regular destination.   We also passed the entrance to the Trafford Park shopping centre complete with moorings for any boaters who wish to stop and shop. 

The aqueduct at Barton took us over the Manchester Ship Canal.  This aqueduct is swung round to allow tall boats along the ship canal.   

The Barton swing aqueduct over the Manchester Ship Canal

The canal then flows alongside a main road and there is a traffic queue.  Horns are beeped and children wave at Bess, sat on the roof, as we pass by.  

Our surroundings change as we sail into a recreation park with well kept towpaths on either side of the canal.  The canal water gradually changes to the rusty colour of iron as we approach Worsley, our mooring for the night.   The canal was built to transport coal and two disused tunnels which led to the old coal mines are still standing.  The buildings facing the canal are very different to the industrial sights we'd seen in Manchester. 

The Packet House at Worsley.  The navigable canal turns sharply to the left , the right hand branch leads to the tunnels to the coal mines.

Our journey from Bollington to Worsley

 

Easter Visitors

Our journey on the Macclesfield Canal started gently, one lock which took us up just one foot before Congleton.  We found a good mooring and looked forward to seeing Shaun, Laura and the kids who came on Easter Monday.  They brought Bett-Lou, Kev's other granddaughter, with them.  We enjoyed a good day together and for Bett-Lou it was the start of a holiday with us. 

The Macclesfield Canal is picturesque and is often raised on embankments and aqueducts so we had good views across the countryside.  A feature of the canal is the "Snake Bridge".  These unusual bridges are sited where the towpath changes to the other side of the canal.  The bridges were designed to enable horses, pulling the original barges, to cross over the canal without being unhitched. 

The Snake bridge enabled the horses to cross over the canal without being unhitched

At Bosley Bett-Lou learnt how to operate a lock and put it to good practice as we climbed up through 12 locks in a mile.  Bett-Lou's help made lighter work of the locks but we were still pleased to find a mooring at the top.  

Thursday brought cold winds which blew us sideways and made steering difficult.  On the Gurnett Aqueduct we spotted some visitor moorings and stopped for the day.  A flight of steps led down from the aqueduct to the Old Kings Head and lunch.  The home-made pies were excellent.  

At Bollington we moored up near Clarence Mill, an impressive stone building with a tall red chimney.  

Clarence Mill from our mooring at Bollington

During the week Bett-Lou had been industrious with pencils and paints and had a folder of pictures to take home with her.  She also proved to have a winning streak at cards and dominoes!

Saturday was bright and warm, perfect for sitting out and chatting with Nic, Gaz and Ryan when they came to pick up Bett-Lou and a lovely end to her holiday. 

Sitting out in the sun

Our journey from Kidsgrove to Bollington