York and Naburn

From Goole we retraced our route on the Aire and Calder as far as Knottingley where we turned into Bank Dole Lock and onto the River Aire.  The river took us to West Haddlesey and onto the Selby Canal which we always thought was one of the prettiest canals and still do after travelling further afield.  The clear water teems with shoals of small fish, electric blue damselflies flash in the sunshine and there is an abundance of small birds in the plants and trees lining the canal. 

Tankards Bridge on the Selby Canal. 

The rural setting gives way to the outskirts of Selby and we were surprised to see some of the moorings have a one hour maximum time limit.  This is to give boaters operating the swing bridge into Selby Basin a mooring but the space allocated, enough for four narrowboats, does seem excessive.   There was space in Selby Basin so we moored up there for the night ready for an 8am lock out onto the River Ouse. 

The Ouse is tidal and the Lockie let us out on the incoming tide.  The current pushed us along and we were soon travelling at a speedy 8mph!  As the river reaches high tide we slow down but   after 2 and 1/4 hours Naburn weir and lock came into view.  Just before turning into the lock we saw a large salmon leaping in the water in front of the weir.  

The River Ouse took us on into York passing an unusual wire sculpture on Naburn Bridge. 

A wire man and his dog fishing on top of Naburn Bridge

The moorings at York are near the museum gardens, a central spot ideal for visiting the city and as with all Canal & River trust visitor moorings there is no charge for our stay.  The river at York is almost as busy as the streets.  The large tour boats tower over the small hire boats and rowing boats are out most of the day with their trainers shouting instructions from the bank or small motor boats.

On the moorings at York.  Some of the trip boats are moored up in the background.

  When it was time to leave we kept a careful eye on the river traffic before turning Brent III round and heading for the rural peace at Naburn.  At night we heard owls calling out and Ken, the Lockie, has seen a tawny owl feeding her chick in the bushes at the bottom of his garden.  Less welcome he had a swarm of bees settle in one of his trees while we were there. 

We had visitors for Father's Day weekend.  Shaun, Laura, Nic, Gaz and all the grandkids came over on Saturday and as always it was good to see everyone again.  Nic and Gaz stayed on the Naburn Lock Caravan Site so we were able to enjoy the evening and a barbeque with them.   On Sunday we all enjoyed an excellent carvery lunch at the Blacksmiths Arms in Naburn.

Our journey from Goole to York and back to Naburn

Goole

On arrival at Viking Marina our first task was to replace the rapidly deteriorating leisure batteries.  After some research we'd bought 4 traction batteries which are more suitable for our demands.  They are 6 volts instead of the 12 volts in a leisure battery so new wiring was required as well as a slight modification to the battery box.  When everything was in place we switched on the mains and gave them a good first charge. 

Before we went for our check-ups Brent III had one of her own, the Boat Safety Certificate.  This is due every 4 years and is required for all boats kept on the inland waterways.  Every boat also has to have boat insurance and a Canal & River Trust License.  

Our journey to Rotherham wasn't straightforward.  A massive landslip at Stainforth in February moved the rail tracks so a replacement bus service is running between Goole and Doncaster.  In an unexpected complication Bess and Brinny weren't welcome on the first bus but luckily the second driver was happy to take them.  We enjoyed our stay with Nic and Gaz and were able to see family and friends.  Thankfully Shaun saved us any problems with the return journey by giving us a lift back.  

Goole town centre is a short walk from the marina and we enjoyed taking the footpath round the docks and over Ocean Lock, one of the locks connecting Goole's inland port to the River Ouse.  Narrowboats can use this lock but we will be taking the scenic route via Selby.

Looking down Ocean Lock with the River Ouse in the background

Looking across the docks, the two distinctive towers are water towers and are known as the salt and pepper pots.  

Wen all our tasks were complete we sailed out of Viking Marina in glorious sunshine leaving the familiar skyline of Goole behind.  Not so familiar was the sight of Southcliffe, a humber keel, in sail outside the Waterways Museum. 

Southcliffe in sail

  

Full Circle

The Aire and Calder is our home canal and we were pleased to see the familiar control panel at Knostrop Fall Lock which along with all the other locks on this canal, is electronically operated.   At the touch of a button the sluices are raised and when the lock has filled or emptied another button opens the heavy lock gates.  

The control panel for locks on the Aire and Calder

The locks on this canal have been built to accommodate 600 tonne sand and gravel barges and are considerably bigger than most locks on the canal network.  Some locks have an extra set of lock gates so the full lock only needs to be used for the commercial barges.

Looking down Bulholme Lock from the top lock towards the centre lock gates.   The orange marker for the bottom gates can be seen just above the tree line on the left of the canal.   The building houses the controls for the lock-keepers.

We moored up at Woodlesford for a few days and enjoyed sitting out in the sun for a change.  The new butcher's shop, next to the Co-Op, was excellent so we called in again before leaving.

Our next stop was Castleford, a small town with all the facilities for boaters.  The plentiful moorings are a short walk from the town centre and as the Bank Holiday approached boats started to arrive.  On Saturday morning Cath, John and the kids joined us for the weekend  followed by Lynne, Gary and their friends.  

The weather was glorious so we were able to sit out all day, enjoy our first barbecue of the year and chat around the fire until the early hours.  Bess was pleased to see her old friends Roxy and Shanti and sat outside Lynne's boat waiting for Shanti to come out.  

We're often asked about our arrangements for health services.  In common with many boaters we've remained registered with our existing dentist and doctor.  The time has come for our check-ups but a secure mooring is needed for Brent III so we can stop over in Rotherham.   Luckily Sue and John at Viking Marina are able to accommodate us.  

On our return journey to Goole we passed two very different types of boat.  As we left  Ferrybridge we came across a Dragon Boat Race.  

Dragon Boat at Ferrybridge

Near Goole we passed the commercial barge Battlestone loaded with sand.
  

Battlestone creating waves as it passes.

  Mooring up at Viking Marina felt like coming home.  Since setting sail from here we've travelled 644 miles and come through 354 locks.  

Our journey from River Lock, Leeds to Viking Marina

Industrial Yorkshire

From Skipton the canal follows the River Aire and although there are no locks there are plenty of swing bridges to keep us occupied.   Between Skipton and Bingley there are 20 of these bridges, most of which need opening manually by pushing at one end.

The swing bridge, a familiar sight on this stretch of the canal.

In 2006 we came to Skipton on one of our first boating holidays so this part of the canal is familiar.  It's been interesting to look back at our log to compare notes.  On that first trip we travelled for long days to complete the return trip in a fortnight but this time our journey has been at a more leisurely pace.  

At the top of the famous Bingley 5 Rise Locks we stopped for a few days and avoided travelling in the wet and windy weather.   The 5 locks, with each lock emptying directly into the one below, form the highest staircase lock in Britain.  We teamed up with narrow-boaters Trev and Sandra for the 60 feet descent with lock-keeper Barry in charge.   Barry was awarded the MBE for his work at the Bingley 5 Rise so we were in good hands.   The lesser known Bingley 3 Rise took both boats down another 30 feet. 

Bingley 5 Rise Locks, the white railings are on the bridges over each lock.

The canal took us through industrial Yorkshire towns with their vast stone mill buildings.  Salt's Mill flanks the canal at Saltaire and nearby in Shipley there are restored mill buildings and warehouses which now have modern day use, mainly as offices.  We moored up at Shipley and introduced Bess and Brin to Trev and Sandra's 2 dogs, an alsatian and a patterdale/yorkshire terrier cross who is half the size of Bess!  

We continued to travel with Trev and Sandra sharing the work at locks and swing-bridges.  I was especially glad of a hand with the swing bridges which are heavier in the towns.  Dock Swing Bridge was unusual.  After dropping the road barriers I had to go back onto the bridge and use my windlass to operate the turning gear.  It felt odd to be standing in the middle of the bridge turning the windlass as the bridge pivoted round me.

Rodley is the last safe mooring before Leeds and as space was limited we breasted up (tied the boats side by side) with Trev and Sandra.  After leaving Rodley we passed through picturesque stretch of canal with woodlands and views over the River Aire.  It's hard to believe this area is unsafe for mooring but apparently it's proximity to a local housing estate makes the canal an attraction.  As we entered Leeds the canal became busy with lunchtime  joggers and near Leeds railway station we came to the end of the Leeds Liverpool Canal.  River Lock took us onto the River Aire and the start of the Aire and Calder Navigation. 


Our journey between Skipton and River Lock, Leeds

Skipton Waterway Festival

We timed our departure from Barrowford to ensure we arrived at the nearby Foulridge Tunnel when it's traffic lights were in our favour.  The lights on this 1640 yard tunnel are green for just 10 minutes every hour.  When we entered the tunnel the exit appeared as an indistinct spot of light in the distance. In between we passed under 3 air shafts giving us a quick glimpse of the sky, dripping sections with colonies of stalactites and some unnerving dips in the roof which appeared to squeeze the tunnel.  After 15 minutes we emerged into daylight and moored up for a walk around Foulridge Wharf.  

Emerging from Foulridge Tunnel, the lights for oncoming boats are on red.  The red and white bar shows the maximum boat height and indicates the depth of the dips in the tunnel roof.   

After Barnoldswick we came to the first locks which take the canal down off the summit level.  Then the canal snaked towards the Yorkshire Dales, occasionally turning back on itself to keep a level.  During a series of tight bends we looked across to our right and saw a bridge we'd just come through.  

On Tuesday we intended to stop at Gargrave but boaters advised us most of the moorings at Skipton had been reserved for the Waterway Festival.  To ensure we had a mooring we kept going and covered 7 miles with 12 locks and 3 swing bridges.  Then we stopped for a well-earned rest.

Skipton is a bustling town with an interesting range of shops and a street market on alternate days.  We were tempted into several purchases including some material for a patchwork quilt I've started.   A small branch of the canal leads out of the town centre and into a steep valley overlooked by Skipton Castle.  The path, elevated on decking, led us passed the canal and up into Skipton Woods for a pleasant walk. 

Skipton Castle overlooks the canal which is to the left of the path.  Eller Beck flows parallel to the canal on the right 

While we enjoyed pottering in Skipton preparations were underway for the Skipton Waterway Festival organised by Pennine Cruisers.  The theme for the festival is cartoon characters and boats bearing giant stuffed toys, displays on the roof and a lot of bunting start to arrive on the moorings.  A stage, stalls and various activities materialise next to the canal basin.  

During the 3 day event there is a brass band, pipe band, morris dancers and various groups, some singing golden oldies which we enjoyed.  On Sunday night an illuminated cruise sailed into Skipton Basin.  The boats were decorated with lights and glided through the dark creating quite a spectacle.  

Illuminated Gromit and Shaun sheep sail passed on top of a narrow boat

     

A decorated narrow boat - the reflections in the water add to the the display.

On Monday we enjoyed a visit from Shaun and Laura.  The weather was perfect for another visit to the Waterway Festival and for the kids to try out the trampoline and rock-climbing wall.  

The Waterway Festival drew to a close on Monday but the warm weather continued so we stopped for another day in sunny Skipton.

Our journey from Barrowford to Skipton

Towns & Country

The canal took us through the rundown outskirts of Chorley and back into rolling hills and woodlands.  We stopped at the top of Johnson's Hill Locks and enjoyed a house speciality, Indian curry, in the Top Lock pub.  The attractive countryside gave way to the suburbs of Blackburn and we continued passed derelict buildings and all sorts of floating debris.  We came up the Blackburn Locks with another couple who luckily had their strong grandson on board to help out.  

Away from the industrial towns there are spectacular views across open countryside to the distant fells.  We see the first ducklings of the year, a greylag gosling with it's protective parents and a foal on wobbly legs. 

A foal on wobbly legs with  fells in the background

 The canal wends it's way towards Burnley, curling round the hills as it follows the contours.   The M65 motorway runs alongside the canal and we crossed paths via bridges, aqueducts and the Gannow Tunnel which is 559 yards long. 

Travelling through the Gannow Tunnel which is about 10 feet wide.

At Burnley we passed through the Weavers Triangle, a conservation area for 19th Century industrial buildings.  Mill buildings with tall red brick chimneys and warehouses flank the canal.  Sadly many are in need of restoration.  

Turning the point of the Triangle we sail onto the Burnley Embankment also known as the Straight Mile and it's possibly the only straight section on the canal.  From here we had an interesting view of Burnley looking down on the town which is divided by the embankment.  On one side we had a bird's eye view of the busy bus station and on the other looked across the rooftops towards the football ground.  At ground level Burnley proved to be a good shopping centre.    

View from the embankment looking across the rooftops to the Burnley football ground. 

We continued to travel through industrial towns accompanied by the M65 until Barrowford.  Here a flight of 7 locks took us up into open countryside surrounded by distant hills.  This is the summit level (the highest stretch of the canal) and it's water supply comes from various reservoirs.  We were surprised to see the Barrowford Reservoir looked half empty but we aren't hoping for rain to fill it.  

Our journey from Adlington to Barrowford 

Leeds Liverpool Canal

The Leeds Liverpool continues to take us through a peaceful country park which has been reclaimed from colliery waste.  In the distance we could see a large structure looming over the canal.   It was a striking canal-side sculpture based on lock gates.

Bess and Brin standing in front of  "Unlock" a canal-side sculpture.    

 We started climbing the Wigan Flight of 21 locks in bright sunshine and immediately came across another type of lock mechanism.  Where space is limited there are no balance beams and the gates are opened using rack and pinion gear.  After the first 8 locks we had the option to moor up for the day but as everything was going well we continued up.   A boat coming in the opposite direction left the locks in our favour reducing the amount of work.

All was going well until after sailing into a lock we couldn't completely shut the gates.  Despite all our efforts a gap of a foot remained between the 2 gates.  An audience gathered and 2 cyclists kindly stopped to lend a hand but still the gates wouldn't shut.  Kev suggested opening the paddles on the front gates to see if the water pressure would push the gates shut.  At first nothing happened but then with a loud crash, making us all jump, the gates closed.  The crowd dispersed except for one man who helpfully advised us the canal was dry ahead. 

We thought he might have been exaggerating until we reached a stretch between the locks which had drained through an open ground paddle.  All that remained was a shallow stream, about a foot deep and a lot of mud.  Kev went ahead armed with a windlass and opened up the remaining locks to fill the stretch and alert the Canal & River Trust staff to the problem.  They gave us a welcome hand through the last few locks.

The wind continued to pick up so we found a good mooring and tied up with extra ropes.  That evening waves were whipped up along the canal and slapped against the side of the boat.   

At Adlington we decided to book into the White Bear Marina and make use of the electric hook up and good facilities.  On Saturday I caught the train to Preston for Jo and Paul's wedding.  The day was perfect, Jo looked lovely, Haighton Manor provided an excellent setting and it was great to see everyone.  Thanks to Glyn and Gillian who drove me back to Preston station on Sunday - I caught the train with a minute to spare!   
Our journey from Worsley to Adlington